원정 개요

BC near Miristi Khola (1/2 hour from Japanese)
C1 at end of glacier.

Members had acclimatized in Soviet Union on 7000m Kangtengri. Martis, Nezerka and Pelikan did all lead climbing, fixing ropes, making tent sites and moving up with their single tent very quickly. Summit day returned to C4 (not biv) at 16:00 hrs. Had been very cold and windy on top. Route was same as French. Upper part of route along ridge from south of summit was very difficult: very sharp ridge, several steps of technical difficulty and windy. Doctor Pelikan did not reach this difficult section but turned back because of fear of freezing his surgeon's fingers during bivouac that was obviously necessary (had no biv equipment except cooker, gas, sugar, shovel to make snow cave, which they made). Not so difficult elsewhere on route but 4 seracs presented danger in 4 places and only here needed fixed ropes below S Ridge. There were frequent avalanches so safest climb was quick climb.

Two summiters Martis and Nezerka knew nothing of Pelikan's fatal fall till they were returning from top and saw signs of his disappearance; he might have thought to climb to peak between Annapurna I and Fang in honour of his daughter's birthday on 1 Oct; was very skilled climber. After 6th Oct, 10 members still on mountain to clear it and still might make summit bid.