원정 개요

BC 22/04 4900m
ABC 24/04 5700m
C1 27/04 6300m
C2 28/04 6600m
C3 01/05 7400m
C4 16/05 7600m
Smt 17/05 by Huebschenberger at 3:45 pm.

Stitzinger, Von Melle and Huebschenberger left C4 at 5 am. Weather was cold and windy. They climbed together to the beginning of the fixed ropes at about 7800m; however, as Huebschenberger was going faster, he carried on on his own. He caught up with Mike Horn from Switzerland of Swiss Sherpa Adventures in the French Couloirs (8250m). The fixed ropes ended at about 8350m, however, despite the exposure on the summit ridge he carried on. He was ahead of Horn and reached the summit at 3:45 pm. He stayed on the summit for about 20 minutes. He descended to C4, where he arrived at 9 pm, where he joined Stitzinger and von Melle in their tent.

Stitzinger and Von Melle reached the base of the French Couloirs at 8250m at 2 pm. Stitzinger weas observing Huebschenberger and Horn and timed their progress. As they wanted to cross the summit ridge back and forth in daylight they realised that there was not enough time and decided to turn back. They descended to C4, where they arrived at about 5 pm.

On 18 May they descended to ABC. They left C4 at about 10:30 am and stopped at the various camps to deposit material for a possible second summit attempt for Von Melle and Stitzinger and arrived at ABC at 6:30 pm.

Stitzinger and Von Melle started a second summit attempt and left from ABC on 22 May. They reached C4 on 24 May and left for the summit at 2 am on 25 May. They were at about 8000m and decided to turn back as Von Melle and Stitzinger, and arrived at ABC at 6:30 pm.

Stitzinger and von Melle started a second summit attempt and left from ABC on 22 May. They reached C4 on 24 May and left for the summit at 2 am on 25 May. They had been going for about 2 hours when von Melle felt very short of breath and very cold. They were at about 8000m and decided to turn back as Von Melle was getting worse. When they got back to C4 at about 6 am they got some oxygen from Himalayan Ascent as von Melle was feeling the onset of HAPE. They rested at C4 until about noon and descended all the way to ABC, where they arrived at 8 pm. Von Melle was checked by Dr. Joe from Himex, but she was fine.

Oxygen: Not taken, but used by Von Melle from C4 to C2