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Himalayan Experience (Himex) Makalu Expedition 2014

Makalu · 2014 · 봄 (1) · New Zealand

원정 개요

BC --
ABC 17/04 5650m
C1 21/04 6065m
C2 23/04 6626m (directly below Makalu La)
C3 29/04 7400m
C4 24/05 7590m
Smt 25/05 by Baranov, Tashi Chhiring, Sand, Pemba Gyalzen at 4 am;
by Ishikawa, Schmitz and Pasang Chhiring at 4:15 am;
by Rene Bergsma and Chumba at 4:45 am;
by Bierling, Huesser, Chhebi Bhote and Lakpa Nuru at 5 am.

First summit attempt started on 15 May from ABC. All members and Sherpas reached C2 and stayed the night, which was very windy. The following morning 16 May was too windy to climb up to C3 (Makalu La) and Seven Summit Sherpas were unable to fix rope from bottom of French Couloirs to summit due to high winds. Everyone descended to ABC.

Second summit attempt started on 22 May from BC. Reached C4 on 24 May in good, but windy weather. Summit team left C4 at 10 pm on 24 May. Good conditions on the way. Sketchy rope fixing in French Couloirs and on summit ridge. Good views from the summit and members spent an average of about 20 to 30 minutes on the top. All members returned to C4 between 7 am and 9 am.

Huesser had a cough all the way through expedition, which turned into pneumonia on the way down from the summit. She descended al the way to ABC, where she arrived at about 8 pm. Ishikawa, Baranov, Sand and all Sherpas also descended to ABC, where they arrived at 5 pm.

Bierling, Bergsma and Schmitz spent the night at C2, where they arrived at 5 pm. They descended to ABC on 26 May.

Casagrande reached C2 on 23 April. He skied with Baranov from C2 to crampon point. He was employed as Baranov's skiing guide; however, the two disagreed about the skiing conditions on the mountain. Casagrande was not happy with the conditions, but Baranov wanted to continue skiing, so Baranov told Casagrande that he would no longer need him. Casagrande left ABC by helicopter on the morning of 25 April.

Smith decided that mountain was too hard for him and took helicopter to Kathmandu on 17 May. His high point was 7200m below the second rock band on 30 April.

Schneider was the expedition doctor and never intended to leave ABC.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C3 to summit to C3 by members,
apart from Huesser, who used it all the way down to ABC

Sherpas:
Lopsang Temba, 1968, Khumjung, Khumbu
Tashi Chhiring, 8/5/1990, Khumjung, Khumbu
Pasang Chhiring, 2040/7/5, Khumjung, Khumbu, South Col with Bangladeshis in 2006
Chumba Sherpa, 2045/1/9,Jubing-6, 1st 8000er
Chhebi Bhote, 30/9/74, Hatiya-3, Makalu
Lakpa Nuru, 1962, Phortse, Khumjung

  • 내부 원정 ID8448
  • 원본 EXPIDMAKA14122
  • 대장Russell Brice, Suzanne Huesser
  • 루트 (Route)Makalu La-NW Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도8485m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용사용
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 18명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Russell Reginald BriceNew ZealandLeader---
Suzanne Katharina HuesserSwitzerlandDeputy Leader성공사용-
Sergei BaranovRussiaClimber성공사용-
Renee Michael BergsmaNetherlandsClimber성공사용-
Barbara Susanne (Billi) BierlingGermanyClimber성공사용-
Julien CasagrandeFranceClimber---
Naoki IshikawaJapanClimber성공사용-
Heidi Schott SandGermanyClimber성공사용-
Jacob Francis SchmitzUSAClimber성공사용-
Joseph B. SchneiderUSAExp Doctor---
Stuart Gregory SmithUSAClimber---
Chhebi BhoteNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Chumba (Chhungba) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Lakpa Nuru SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Lobsang Temba (Lupsang Temba) SherpaNepalSirdar---
Pasang Chhiring SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Pemba Gyalzen SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Tashi Chhiring (Tashi Tshering) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-

출처·참고문헌

http://himalayanexperience.com/newsletters/makalu-2014 · 2014 · 웹사이트 (5) ·