원정 개요

BC 14/04 4800m
ABC 16/04 5700m
C1 22/04 6400m
C2 29/04 6650m
C3 15/05 7400m
C4 16/05 7600m
Smt 25/05 by Mane, Pemba Rinji, Dorchi Sherpa at 3:50 am.

After having had one failed summit attempt Mane, Pemba Rinji and Dorchi started a second summit attempt on 22 May from ABC. Mali did not join him due to logistical and health reasons. They had to have oxygen flown in from Kathmandu, which would not have been enough for both climbers. On top of that Mali was not feeling well.

Summit team started from C3 at 6:40 pm on 24 May. They were the first to reach the summit and it was still dark. They stayed on top for about 25 minutes to wait for sunrise and descended all the way to ABC, where they arrived at 2:30 pm.

First summit attempt:

Mane, Mali, Dorchi, Dendi, Pemba Rinji started fixing the rope from about 50m after the glacier. They reached the bottom of the French couloir at about 4 am. They stopped to wait for the sun as the Sherpas wanted to fix the route in the French Couloir. Dorjee fixed the rope in the French Couloir for about 300m to the top of the Couloir at about 8400m. They used their personal rope, which was only 6mm. When they ran out of rope, they decided to turn back as it would have been too dangerous to continue without fixed rope.

They descended to C4 where they arrived at 1:30 pm. On 18 May they descended to ABC. They left at 8 am and arrived at ABC at 4:30 pm.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C2 to high point/summit to ABC by members
From C3 to high point/summit to C2 by Sherpas

Sherpas:
Lakpa Dendi, Gudel-9, Solu, 1974
Dorchi Sherpa, Makalu-9, 01/12/1979
Pemba Rinji, Okhaldhunga, Bishinga, 10/01/1976