원정 개요

BC northeast of Machhapuchure
ABC south-southwest of Annapurna III on moraine
Biv 1 at bottom of a spur
Biv 3 on horizontal ridge SE Ridge
Biv 4 on horizontal ridge SE Ridge
Biv 5 at bottom of SE Ridge-Face (high point).

Alpine-style climb ABC started on 29th Sept with Cave, Perkins, Tattersall and Duff to 1st biv. On 2nd day only Cave and Duff went on up while other 2 down because of altitude problems. Duff & Cave down to ABC on 3rd Oct because big storm approaching; storm brought snow & wind. Now Cave & Duff had not enough time left. Other 2 not happy with the very long East Ridge with no interesting climbing involved. There were a lot of avalanches that nearly hit Fairley.

* Cook died on approach to BC of cold that suddenly became pulmonary edema (he died during night of 10/11 Sept).


Letter from Malcolm Duff - 11 Nov 1988

You may well have heard that our cook died of HAPE at 13,500 ft on the walk-in. The first party suffered appalling conditions and at this spot decided to send down 14 porters who were likely to die from exposure. 8 other porters (superstars) were pitted out in expedition equipment and stayed in the group to help in the final 1-day ferry to BC.

The previous section of the route in is absolutely desperate (2 loads were dropped into a gorge directly below). Clearly evacuating of anybody by land is out of the question.

They had established BC on 10th (or at least some gear got there) when the cook who had responded to treatment by drugs, suddenly became worse and died approx midnight.