원정 개요

BC northeast of point 4100m, WSN point 4738m on glacier
Dep east of BC and east of spur south of point 4738m
C1 east of Deposit Camp
C2 at bottom of rock buttress reaching to N-S Ridge between 2 mountains
C3 on buttress
C4 at North-South Ridge.

26th Sept 5:50 am 2 teams started for 2 summits and on top of Dhaulagiri VI 12:30 pm and Gurja 12:43 pm; returned C4 from Dhaulagiri VI 17:00 hrs and Gurja 18:00 hrs same day; ridge to Gurja very difficult knife ridge atop steep walls on both sides (walls moving rock, snow and ice). Easy climb to Dhaulagiri VI. 1000m fixed rope C2 to C4 on steep sections. No rope fixed rope above C4; many crevasses below C2 (area where Spring 1988 climber died).

Ghustang North climbed 19th Sept by 3 members (Lee, Lee and Shin) from C2 up West Face.


Dhaulagiri VI and Gurja, Aut 1988 by Young Cheol Shin

Several Korean climbers from Wulsan (leader; Mr Young-Cheol Shin) planned a joint expedition with Nepali climbers with a great ambition of conquering simultaneously 2 peaks above 7000m - Dhaulagiri VI (7268m) and Gurja Himal (7193m).

The first attack began on Sept 26th at 5:52 am, Mr. Bong-Hee Nam (climbing leader) and Nepali member Ang Pasang started C4 (6750m) for Dhaulagiri VI, and at the same for Gurja Himal, Sang-Ho Lee and Seung-Hwan Lee, and the same time for Gurja Himal, Sang-Ho Lee and Seung-Hwan Lee (Korean), and Pemba (Nepali) also started.

The climbing route toward Dhaulagiri VI was led 300m down from C4 and then continued to knife ridge. Climbing carefully through very sharp and dangerous ridge, member Nam and Ang Pasang firstly gained the summit. It was 12:30 pm. Just after 13 minutes, another success was performed on the top of Gurja Himal.

As the second attempt, member Sang-Ho Lee and Seung-Hwan Lee again got to the summit of Dhaulagiri VI at 12:15 pm on Sept 27th.