원정 개요

BC at Kaireng Khola bottom of North Saipal Glacier
ABC at moraine of North Saipal Glacier
C1 at bottom of North Face
C2 just below a col on NE Ridge
High point at NE Ridge.

Had to abandon because snow conditions bad with snow-slab danger on north side and had to leave BC not later than 24th Oct north side very steep, but is possible to climb. Put C1 at bottom of face planing to try face but then slab avalanche came down. Team then shifted route to NE Ridge when snow was deep and slowed progress. Needed 1 more week and several more camps. NE Ridge to pass not difficult but above 5800m technically difficult, steep in one section, rock with 3 summits in 3 km from pass to summit (curving ridge). Only Montaz and Zoller did any climbing above moraine.