원정 개요

The Asian Trekking International Everest expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1 or 2 climbers each). Asian Trekking provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


William Burke (USA)

Name: Everest Challenge 2014
Camps: BC(12/04,5200m),ABC(17/04,6400m),C1(19/04,7000m),C2(21/05,7900m),
C3(22/05,8300m),Smt(25/05)
Left: 31/05/2013
Hired: 2
Term: Success

After the first acclimatization rotation, Burke went to Tingri and the Hot Springs and spent five days there. He returned to ABC on 19 May to start his summit attempt. He reached C2 on 22 May and stayed two nights there. In the night of 24 May, he left C3 at 9:20 pm. Weather was clear and windy with light snow. Straightforward climb. Summited at 9:30 am. They spent about half an hour on the summit. There was no view due to thick cloud.

They descended to C3, where they arrived at about 1 pm. On 26 May a storm hit and they descended to C1 in gale force winds. The descent took them about 10 hours as they had to wade in knee-deep snow. On 27 May they descended to ABC.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from below the headwall at 6800m to summit to C1 by Burke
From C2 to summit to C2 by Sherpas.

Sherpas:
Gyaluk (Gyalu Lama), Patle, Okhaldhunga, 21/8/75
Mingma Nuru, Thame, Namche-7, 28/1/86 (1st 8000er)


David Klein (Hungary)
Edina Aniko Torok (Hungary) (BC Mgr)

Name: Spar Everest Expedition
Camps: BC(15/04,5180m),ABC(21/04,6333m),C1(28/04,7039m),C2(06/05,7600m),
C3(23/05,8300m),xxx(24/05,8700m)
Left: 28/05/2013
Hired: 1
Term: Abandoned at 8700m (top of Second Step) due to lack of oxygen for Sherpa,
too slow on summit schedule

On 23 May had a 4-hour rest at C3 from 3 pm to 7 pm. Then climbed all night, needing 5 hours to climb the Second Step. Reached the top of it at 9:40 am on 24 May. Here decided to abandon as his Sherpa didn't have enough oxygen left anymore to finish (one of the 2 bottles not working) and as they were 3 hours late on the schedule agreed with David's base camp manager Edina Torok (had decided for a summit time maximum 8 to 9 am). In fact they would have needed 3 more hours to reach the top. Descended the same day to C1, the day after to ABC and on 26 May were back at BC.

Oxygen:
Taken, used by Sherpa from C3 to high point to C3
Not taken, not used for David Klein

Sherpa:
Ang Mingma Sherpa, 21/2/68, Yilajung


Atanas Skatov (Bulgaria)

Name: Bulgarian Everest North Expedition 2014
Camps: BC(15/04,5200m),ABC(21/04,6440m),C1(28/04,7040m),C2(12/05,7700m),
C3(23/05,8300m),Smt(24/05)
Left: 28/05/2013
Hired: 1
Term: Success

At first during the final summit push, his Sherpa didn't want to go anymore, so they descended 150m. Then Atanas saw people coming up and decided to come back up, having lost 1 hour maybe on their schedule. On summit was a bit cold but good weather with no wind and clear sky, good views "perfect".

Claims 1st vegan to climb N Ridge of Everest.

Oxygen:
Taken, used from C3 to summit to 8400m (2 bottles up, 1 bottle down)

Sherpa:
Phur Gyalzen Sherpa, 16/9/70, Namche-9, Eeverst S X4, Everest N X5


Ryszard Pawlowski (Poland)
Krystian Oleksiak (Poland)

Name: Krystian Everest North Expedition 2014
Camps: BC(15/04,5200m),ABC(21/04,6400m),C1(22/04,7050m),C2(22/25,7800m),
C3(23/05,8300m),xxx(24/05,8500m)
Left: 29/05/2013
Hired: 2
Term: Success

On 24 May at first summit push, Krystian Oleksiak left C3 earlier at 11 pm on previous day, whereas Ryszard Pawlowski left at 8 am, so that they could join for the summit; both met at 11 am at 8500m; but here Krystian Oleksiak considered the wind too strong, so they went back down together at C3, Ryszard deciding however to try again next day. Oleksiak left Ryszard Pawlowski at 1 pm and went back down to C1, reaching ABC the the day after and BC on the 26 May.

On 25 May for the summit push, Ryszard Pawlowski started at 00:30 hrs, summiting short before 8 am, spent 40 minutes on top ("maybe more as I had good conditions with clear sky"), then went back to C3 at 11 am then C1 on the same day. On 26 May he was back to ABC and BC the day after. Every day from 2:30 pm weather turned bad.

Krystian climbed with Chhiring Phinjo Sherpa, 29/4/1973, Khumjung
Ryszard climbed with Pasang Sherpa, 12/8/78, Salleri-9 [Thamo?]


Philippe Hullaert (Belgium)
Claude Faivre (France)

Name: Everest 2014
Camps: BC(23/04,5200m),ABC(30/04,6400m),C1(16/05,7050m),C2(23/05,7800m),
xxx(23-24/05,7800m)
Left: 28/05/2013
Hired: 2
Term: Abandoned at 7800m due to lack of time and reliable information

Philippe Hullaert and Claude Faivre considered they were in good shape with good timing, but without any weather forecast, they could only rely on the Sherpas. They felt like the Sherpas lied in order not to go up, the weather and summit windows being too short (knowing 26 May wouldn't match for weather) this in order to sort a bit some people out from the normal route to be less crowded.

24 May back at C1, day after to ABC, on 27 May back to BC.

Oxygen: Used at C2 for sleeping

Sherpas:
Pasang Tshering Sherpa, 27/12/1973, Namche-7
Pasang Nuru, Jubing, 17/5/74


Debabrata Mukherjee (India)
Biplab Baudya (India)

Name: Touch the Sky Everest 2014
Camps: BC(15/04,5200m),ABC(24/04,6400m),C1(3/05,7050m),C2(23/05,7800m),
C3(24/05,8300m),Smt(25/05)
Left: 29/05/2013
Hired: 2
Term: Success

Went up to C1 for sleeping during acclimatization time.

Summit push:

Started from ABC on 22 May, sleeping C1 that day.
On 23 May slept at C2.

On 24 May rested at C3, then started for summit at 10:15 pm. Mukherjee reached summit at 9:03 am next day, Biplab at 9:40 am (Nepali time), then both went back to C3; having no more oxygen from 8000m, they took breaths in remaining bottles of C3.

On 26 May both were back to C1, here their Sherpas left them alone.
On 27 May duo went back to ABC.
On 28 May back to BC.

The duo reports not so good weather conditions for summit day, with clear sky but terrible wind, the latter having decreased temporarily during the evening before becoming gusty from midnight and during the night. Day after, 26 May, after an almost calm morning, weather deteriorated again in cloudy and gusty conditions, all 4 reaching C1 in "real bad weather."

Accidents: black frostbite on first fingers for Baudya (3 smallest fingers on
right hand, 2 smallest fingers on left hand)

Oxygen:
Taken from C1 (for sleeping at C2 and C3 up) to summit to 8000m
(plus at 7600m at C3 down)

Sherpas:
Pemba Tenzing Sherpa, 2/2/76, Solukhumbu
Nima Kanchha Sherpa, 30/8/79, Namche-7


Victor Bobok (Russia)
Alexander Victorov (Russia)

Name: Dream Team Everest Expedition 2014
Camps:
Left:
Hired: 2
Term: No Smt

Sherpas:
Nawang Kalden, Solu, 21/5/91
Lakpa Tenzing, Namche-8, 7/9/90