원정 개요

The team (Kazemi, Pasang Sherpa and base camp cook) reached the site of the Italian base camp of decades ago on 11 April. They had to stop there because of deep snow ahead. They stayed four days until a big group came along and fixed ropes on the slope down to the valley below on the trail to the normal BC site for their NE Ridge route. They arrived at BC on 15 April.

Deep snow remained a problem. On the 21st they were unable to reach the site for their C1 and had to make an advance base camp at 5100m. The next day they got to their C1 site at 5700m.

They were back in BC on the 23rd. On the 26th they returned to C1, and on the 27th they aimed for C2, but again they failed to reach their target because of snow. Snow was falling and it was so foggy "we couldn't see anything." They were able to make C2 at 6570m on the following day since now Adele Pennington's Sherpas had fixed rope.

But on the 29th they made no further progress because Pasang Sherpa insisted that they return to BC. They finally moved back to C1 on 4 May and to C2 on the 5th. On the 6th, with Pasang climbing very slowly, they managed to make C3 at 7250m after nine or ten hours.

That night, Kazemi couldn't sleep at all. Pasang was all but useless; he failed to make a proper arrangement in their tent for proper space for them to lie down (she had to lie on ground that was entirely uphill or downhill beneath her).

Pasang had been a constant problem, not doing his job properly, frequently falling down, always wanting to descend and sleep. On 7 May, she decided it was better not to continue fighting him. She went down to C1 with him behind her ("it was much more safe for me" when he was behind). They returned to BC on the 8th and left it on the 10th.

Sherpa:
Pasang Sherpa, 24/4/81, Ramechap, Gudel, Solu, Dhaulagiri X1, Lhotse X1