원정 개요

BC at road
C4 at North Col.
High point on North Face.

Reached N Col twice and then from there to 8100m using Spanish C5 and C6 on the way; turned back from high point because lacked supplies and member strength with only the two Bulgarians doing high climbing. Lot of fresh snow and only 2 men, so no chance for summit, so turned back on 20th Aug, down to N Col that day and on down following day; was much snow and even rain at N Col. Spanish let them use their camps above the col and climbed together.

Leader reached N Col, other two Greek members only about 6600m.

Abergo and Casimiro of Spanish Everest 11 Sept 89: Greek member had not enough experiece or technical ability for this climb.


Everest Attempt:

The first Greek Himalayan expedition had as members Kostas Kanidis, Kostas Passaris, Nikos Louridis and me as leader and Bulgarian Dinio Gueorguiev-Tomov. We got to Base Camp at 5200m on July 16 and acclimatized for ten days. We established Camps 1, 2 and 3 on July 26, 27 and 28 at 5500m, 6000m and 6400m. The weather turned bad. On July 30 Kanidis and I occupied C4 on the North Col but had to descend after 2 days of bad weather. The next ten days were bad. It was decided that Kanidis and Tomov should make an alpine style try from 7100m with one bivouac. They set out on August 18 with good weather but deep snow. They climbed to 8100m but returned from that point.