원정 개요

BC at normal site on road
C2 on North Face.

5th June whole team left BC with yaks and in 6th and 7th installed ABC; looked at Japanese Couloir but would need lots of fixed rope and did not want to spend time getting and fixing rope, so decided to go to N Face to Great Couloir. On 11th June had all equipment in C2 for summit push but did not sleep there. Rest in C1 on 12th and on 13th occupied C2. 14th weather bad: clouds coming from Lho La and turned back in snowfall from 7500m and slept in C2. Night of 14th/15th blizzard and had to descend quickly to ABC with avalanching. 15th night warm and glacier between ABC and C1 became dangerous.

Weather bad until 21st, 1st day could see mountain again (covered in snow). Up to C1 22nd where one tent broken and others covered with snow. 23rd moved C1 downwards and on 25th tried to go up to remove C2 but unable and same on 26th. 27th finally to C2 and found one tent completely swept away but other tent recovered. Left BC 30th. In July weather was even worse; would have had to wait till Aug.