원정 개요

Email to Billi Bierling - 22 October 2013

Departed from Kathmandu to Arughat Bazar at 6:09 am by bus together with Venezuela's expedition. They trekked to Samagaon from 7 to 11 Sept intending to climb Manaslu by normal route. They did not stay in BC at altitude 4600-4800m; all moved to Samagaon as Ruslan's wife and daughter had to stay in Samagaon.

On 12 Sept they ascended to BC and returned to Samagaon. On 14 Sept morning they ascended from Samagaon with porters; they carried 3 of their bags to BC for deposit. Afternoon they had to go to C1, on its low part in altitude about 5450m, and slept there.

On 15 Sept they climbed to C2 at 6400m and slept there. On 16 Sept they descended to Samagaon, 18 Sept they went again to C1, 19 Sept to C2. Then when they were going to C3 the weather became very bad and there was snowfall. One of the Sherpas recommended them to go down and on 20 Sept they descended to Samagaon. On 22 Sept they ascended to C1 (5600m), 23 Sept to C3 (6800m) and slept there. On 24 Sept they went to C4 and slept there.

Most of them [other climbers] used oxygen; only a few did not. Firstly they were going to descend down 25 Sept because of bad acclimatization, but somebody from Sherpas told them that weather forecast was terrible, and since 25 Sept was the last possibility to make it to summit so they decided to try again. So they started on 25 Sept from C4 at about 3 am together with many climbers and Sherpas. The weather was perfect with no wind and no snowfall. Ruslan Kirichenko and Valerii Shamalo did summit on 25 Sept at 11 am. There were no Sherpas with them, but many with other climbers. On way down they arrived to C4 at about 2 pm and slept there because they were very tired and wanted to sleep.

On 27 Sept they descended to Samagaon. 29 Sept they visited BC to take back their deposit (with help of a porter) together with Ruslan's wife and daughter. 30 Sept they started from Samagaon to Arughat Bazar.