Jobo Rinjang 2013
Lunag Ri · 2013 · 가을 (3) · USA
원정 개요
David Gottlieb and his teammate Chad Kellogg, and Chris Wright and his teammate Scott Adamson, attempted two peaks rising from the Lunag Glacier, which branches westward off the Nangpa Glacier south-southwest of the Nangpa La into Tibet; both peaks are on the border with Tibet. They actually have no names and are not on the government's list of permitted peaks. Jobo Rinjang is the nearest mountain that is on the list, and Gottlieb obtained a permit for this mountain; Wright was on the same permit, but neither had any intention of climbing it.
Gottlieb and Chad Kellogg attempted a peak of 6907m, according to the Schneider Khumbu map, which they called Lunag I. They pitched their BC next to Wright's on 12 October; their ABC was also next to Wright's camp. BC was at 5100m on the northwest side of the Lunag Glacier up on grass next to the lateral moraine. Because of a lot of snow on the glacier, they made an ABC on the 21st at 5500m from which they launched their alpine-style climb.
The two climbers began their attempt on Lunag I, west-northwest of Lunag West, from ABC on 23 October in the center of Lunag I's SW Face at 3:00 am in the dark. By 2:00 pm they had gotten to 5950m when they were being pelted by "extreme rockfall." They took shelter for protection under an overhanging rock formation and sat on their packs secured by ice screws from 4:00 pm to 6:30 pm. They moved up again, in the dark.
But at 7:30 pm, the largest of all falling rocks came crashing down beside them; it did not hit Gottlieb, but a piece that broke off of it and hit Kellogg on his left shoulder hard enough that he couldn't raise that arm above his shoulder. So they rappelled back to their sheltering rock formation until the rockfall eased off. Then they descended to ABC at 3:30 am on the 24th.
Kellogg's arm recovered, and on the 31st at 9:00 pm they tried again, this time climbing up a ramp at the left side of the face to the SW Ridge at 6450m. Here at 4:30 am they found a spot where they could make a ledge for their bivy tent in two-and-half hour's hard work. This turned out to be their high point.
Here Gottlieb discovered that five of his fingers were white, showing they had become frostbitten despite (or because of) warm gloves, from sweat. Now they had to descend. They waited again for darkness to minimize the rockfall and started down at 8:00 pm. They spent the whole night down-climbing and rappelling in the dark. But still occasionally a rock fell from above. Gottlieb was hit by one and was knocked off the face. He was held by an anchor, but in his short fall, he hit Kellogg in turn and knocked him off the face. Again an anchor prevented a serious fall.
They were not injured and continued their descent to ABC, where they arrived at 4:00 am and slept until noon. It was now extremely hot inside their tent, so they packed up and made the six-kilometer trek to BC, which they reached at 7:00 pm.
- 내부 원정 ID8308
- 원본 EXPIDLUNR13301
- 대장David Gottlieb
- 루트 (Route)SW Face
- 최고 도달고도6450m
- 정상 등정 성공아니오
- 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
- 종료 사유질병 (7)
참가자 2명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| David Alfred Gottlieb | USA | Leader | - | - | - |
| Chad Lewis Kellogg | USA | Climber | - | - | - |