원정 개요

In their [summit] attempt on 31 October, Choi Jae-Yeong, Choi Jin-Chul, Eun, Hong, Jeon, Kim and Woo had to turn arond from C3 and back to C2 due to strong storm with winds of 70 nautical miles. It was impossible to stay at C3. Next day the team went down to BC. On 5 November Hong left BC to C1 alone. On 6th Hong continued toward C2. He found that the ladder (two joined together) on a crevasse between C1 and C2 fell down into crevasse. Hong managed to cross the crevasse and reached C2. There was sporadic storm and very cold so he returned to BC where he arrived at 8 pm. Weather was warm until October end and with the start of November it became very cold.

Shin went up to C2 and left expedition on 3 November.

Earlier fixed line between C2 to C3 was swept away by a big avalanche. The team had to buy new ropes about 1500m from Namche which was very expensive.

The team then went to south side BC of Lhotse on 8 November. They did not stay there due to strong wind and went to Gorak Shep same day. There was half a meter snow all the way to Gorak Shep. No climbing Sherpas on south side.


Pasang Namgyal - 6 January 2014

In autumn seasons no "icefall doctors" are employed to keep the route through the Khumbu Icefall open for the many teams that attempt Everest and Lhotse in the spring season. The Korean Lhotse team in the autumn of 2013 had to fend for themselves.

Pasang Namgyal Sherpa, who was with the Korean Lhotse expedition, said that the team's four Sherpas, including himself, were kept busy putting in fixed lines through the Khumbu Icefall and replacing team as they were rendered useless by the Icefall's movements. The route collapsed "many times, especially in the middle" he said. They re-fixed the ropes unusually fast (in three days) because of special incentive pay from the Koreans to do so. They fixed a total of 1800m of rope to keep the route open.

It was not only in the Icefall that they had to fix and re-fix the lines. From C2 (6400m) to C3 (7300m) they used 2600m of rope after a snowstorm that lasted continously for three days and caused a lot of avalanching, and 300m from C3 to the team's high point (7900m).

Sherpas:
Pasang Namgyal Sherpa, 25/11/72, Khumjung, Khumbu
Sanu Sherpa, 30/4/75, Walung, Makalu-9
Phur Gyalzen, 16/4/70, Yilajung, Khumbu
Bir Kaji Tamang, 10/12/78, Gorakhami-4, Solu