원정 개요

BC on left side of Chhyatungdinga (Broken) Glacier
C1 just before glacier opens wide (5600m)
C2 on open glacier at foot of SW Face (5870m)
C3 on SW Face (6450m).

The team's goal was the top of the East Summit (6893m), not the main summit, and they reached their goal.

Three members made an unsuccessful bid to reach the East Summit on 10 October. They were Hagiwara, Honda and Murakami with three Tamangs, Kitap Sing, Ram Kaji and Tul Bahadur. But they got no higher than 6700m before it was too late to carry on: the snow covering the main technical difficulties on that lay ahead to reach the final two pitches to reach the easy final ridge to the top. While the Tamangs fixed more rope, they retreated to C3 for the night.

The next day at 6:00 am they set off again and were successful this time. Hagiwara and the three Tamangs summited at 12:30 mid-day and were followed an hour later by Honda and Murakami. They had managed to fix 1800 meters of rope from C2 to the east summit.

All were down in C2 at 7:30 pm and in BC the next day. Then they were stuck in BC for three days by heavy snowfall that produced a cover one meter deep before it stopped. They were able to leave BC only on 15 October for Lhonak.

For them to carry on to the main summit (7041m) would have been very difficult. They did not have enough strength for that.

Non-summiting members:

Furushiro reached C2 with the team, but then developed the early stage of pulmonary edema and went back to BC, where he stayed until they all left together. He used oxygen for an hour in C2 and during his descent to C1.

Mashimo and Nakanishi were young students with little climbing experience. They spents the entire climbing period in BC as planned.

Fixed Rope:

1800m were fixed from C2 to C3 too nearly summit. The steepest part from C3 to final ridge was fully equipped, same for the final ridge, even less difficult.

Oxygen:
Furushiro used oxygen for medical use at C2 (headache and stomach's problems).

Hired:
Kitap Sing Tamang, 30/8/76, Deusa-6, Solu, Everest X1, Manaslu X2
Ram Kaji Tamang, 10/6/77, Deusa-6, Solu, no 8000ers
Tul Bahadur Tamang, 30/8/66, Deusa-6, Solu