원정 개요

BC at Lhotse Nuptse Glacier east of Chhukung Peak
Biv 1 at beginning of S Spur.

Did acclimatization climb on Chhukung Peak and Marshall found he had 19,000 ft altitude limit left. Robinson climbed on Nuptse first day of team's climbing Nuptse, which started 7 May, and his back gave such trouble he couldn't move for several days but stayed on at BC till climb finished.

Italians, Nuptse team reduced to 2 climbers with one just not ready for Himalayan climb. So 4 men climbed together (5 actually on 1st day) in alpine style. 8 May to 19,800 ft (Robinson climbed east pitches and went down with back trouble). Averaged 4 to 5 rope lengths a day (rope about 50m) in very hard climbing and 7th day got to top of Pillar at 6900m surpassing Jeff Lowe's high point. Canadians and Italians took turns leading climb, 1 day Canada next day Italy. From top of Pillar sat out a day of bad storm and Italians then decided to go down because of lack of food and fuel and weather conditions while 2 Canadians stayed but were now on half rations. 16 May good weather. Rested during day to leave at midnight for SE Summit and did get away at 1:00 am of 17 May. Climbed through night on easier terrain of steep hanging glacier (Pillar had been steep granite ala Yosemite, plus sections less steep of mixed rock and ice) and got into rocks, where realized would take at least 2 more days up very steep rock to SE Summit. In afternoon snowing so climbing ended about noon on 17 May. Got about 450m above top of Pillar.

SE Summit - 7804m

Descended British 1961 route via a Pillar west of ascent route. Back in BC on 19 May. Slept 17th May at top of ascent pillar.