원정 개요

BC above Gorak Shep (higher and about 1 and 1/2 minute of it)
C1 at 5800m on ridge above Kalapattar
C2 just before horizontal snow ridge on SW Ridge
C3 at 6250m at east side of the rock towers
Biv series on ridge
Biv on ridge in ice cave.

Both White and Kopal stopped climbing early, both not feeling strong as were other two. White had chest infection and Kopal "burned out" on this mountain, went with sirdar to climb Pokalde. Kopal left BC 14th Apr while others remained at BC.

4 members started up on 11th Apr, 12th on up individually to start of ice on horizontal ridge while others, too slow and less competent, turned back from the climb after all 4 had established C2 on 12th.

13th 2 members (Leibundgut and Tuckey) on up while Kopal and White down. Leibundgut and Tuckey crossed ridge, slept on ledge that night in tent. 14th around the rock, followed the ridge and what altitude reached don't know that night; same for following 2 nights. Had bad fire in tent last night it was used and 17th slept in snow cave at least at 22,000 ft on SW Ridge. 18th to top, took photo before top, continued to true top and more photos. Descended about 150 ft when Leibundgut said dizzy, not well, needed help. Decided to go down E Ridge, which seemed easier with same ropes fixed by Indonesians. Soon Leibundgut completely disoriented re-climbing techniques; darkness soon came and wind blew up (as much as 60 mph). Best to dig in which only Tuckey did and during pause in doing this, Leibundgut was gone and his pack on him gone but ice axe still planted and now very dark. Tuckey slept in ice cave and down to BC on 19th.

Leibundgut's girl friend and her sister were at BC when Tuckey came back alone.