원정 개요

BC due west of Kalapattar
C1 on SW Ridge
C2 on SW Ridge (normal site)
C3 on SW Ridge (normal site).

Lower part of route not normal way: arrived in snowstorm and couldn't see well. "Weather was so good for us, but winds so bad up high" in April.

We climbed the SW Ridge. Through a series of events, we ended at a base camp on the west side of Kalapatar, and so may have pioneered a new route on the first 2000 ft. From base camp we worked around the right of the triangular glacier and up a thousand vertical feet to the Kalapattar ridge through sections of rock and 60-degree to 70-degree ice. C1 was placed on April 7 at 19,600 ft on the first bit of flat ground. The route was unusually dry this season. We encountered mostly loose rock and mushroom ice between C1 and C2. The latter was occupied on April 13 at 20,400 ft. We intersected the regular route there. We traversed under rock towers through very loose rock and along sun-cupped ice and water ice before moving vertically onto better rock back to the ridge. We placed C3 at 21,500 ft on April 23. The route was littered with old fixed rope and hardware, some of which we cleaned. On April 25, Lucy Smith, Carol Snetsinger and Kathy Phibbs summited. Three days later, Diane Taliaferro and I also reached the summit.

Shari Kearney, National Outdoor Leadership School
Source from American Alpine Journal, 1990, pg 234