원정 개요

BC 28 Oct 4600m
C1 02 Nov 5700m
C2 15 Nov 6000m (members)
Smt 15 Nov at 2 pm by rope-fixing Sherpas Dorji Sonam, Tenzing Gyalzen,
Pasang Rinji
Smt 16 Nov by Harrington and Tenzing Gyalzen (again) at 8:37 am, Ballinger,
Penner and Pasang Rinji (again) at 8:52 am, Morrison at 9:17 am
and Beidleman at 9:52 am.

The 16 Nov team left C2 in about 30 km/h winds at 3 am. It was a very clear day. They were only people on the summit and in fact the first commercial team that summited that season. A small Slovenian team summited later the same day. They stayed about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to BC, where they arrived at 7 pm.

Jurek reached C2 on 3 November, but abandoned her climb due to fatigue.

Team left BC on 17 Nov by helicopter.

Fixed rope: from Grey Tower (from the Mushroom Ridge to C2.7, and to the summit)

Sherpas:
Dorje Sonam Gyalzen, Phortse, 24/05/1981
Pasang Rinji, Phortse, 18/01/1977
Tenzing Gyalzen, Phortse, 02/07/1991

Ballinger by email: All previous teams stopped at an exposed section of the Mushroom Ridge. Our team felt comfortable fixing this section of the ridge (combined guide and Sherpa effort) and after this the route from C2.7 up was in amazing condition. Overall the big October snowstorm made the route better and safer than in previous years. Only the Mushroom Ridge cornices were more difficult or dangerous than normal.