원정 개요

BC at glacier junction for Makalu
Biv 1 at moraine NE of East Col
Biv 2 at plateau south of point 6400m west of small col
C3 west of point 6730m on wide col/small plateau.

Alpine-style attempt. Spent six days on mountain, about 3-8 May. 6 members set out on about 3 May and made 1st biv. On 3rd day Luis Miguel, Lete Lasa, Golzarri Orue stayed at 6050m biv while Appelaniz, Gomez and Alfredo continued climb and bived at 6500m on 5 May and 6 May tried for summit, but reached only 7100m on SE Ridge just below big serac. Retreated because 2 very tired and serac dangerous and slept again at 6500m. 7 May returned to 6050m biv. Luis Miguel, Lete Lasa and Golzarri Orue spent 3 nights at 6050m biv. One day rested, next day tried to follow others to climb to top but winds too strong.

All six returned to BC via biv at about 5300m. Were in hurry: four had to return home for jobs and Montero Urgudo wanted to return to sick girl friend; Martin Cubillo had stomach trouble.