원정 개요

The team chose a new line on the right of the main corridor located in the center of the East Face, to be sheltered from the seracs, ice and rocks avalanches. (Central corridor low section is 65-degrees steep, then middle section between 60 degrees and 70 degrees, then the upper section is 80-degrees steep up to 85 degrees).

On the 24 Oct Yoo Hak-Jae and his teammates reached bivouac 3, after climbing in correct mixed ground conditions. From there Yoo Hak-Jae tried to climb alone up to 6300m, where he was blocked by the soft snow conditions in a steeper ground; trying to reach the proper rock, he could only disappear in the snow (up to right under the shoulders), finding no anchors at all. His goal was to join on the right of the face the shoulder located high on the North Ridge, this to avoid the mushrooms of the upper East Face and so gain the summit by the easier end of the North Ridge.

On the 25 October, all 3 members went down to their base camp in 12 abseils (with 2 100m of length Kevlar ropes of 8mm)

According to them, snow conditions are the key problem to climb via this East Face, which otherwise wouldn't be too difficult, mostly in mixed ground (with good protections in the rock), but dangerous. Mostly the central main corridor, even easier, has to be avoided because of a major avalanche exposure.