원정 개요

BC at junction of two glaciers
C1 at start of West Pillar
C2 at bottom of pillar's steep part
C3 on pillar
Biv at top of pillar
High point at bottom of final very steep section.

Big snowstorm as arrived at Barun La and many porters deserted. C1 first at 5800m but wind destroyed tent and made camp higher behind rocks. Entire pillar covered in ice, very bad conditions, strong wind, 1 man sick, 1200m rope fixed: took long time to make route route to C2. C3 set on 4 May but not slept in because storm coming up up and down to BC. Slept in 11 May.

18th tried for top (all four members) and reached junction with SE Buttress in good weather at 6:00 am, five hours after left biv, and little above this found Czech body [Karel Schubert] from '76 spring, sitting placidly facing climbers who came up. This impressed us a lot, but kept on up, more than 50m - last near vertical section more difficult than they could manage with little rope and only 2 pitons left and too dangerous from avalanching of loose snow, so gave up. Batard had used ropes in most difficult sections [Spring 88]. 18 May 2 men slept in C3, 2 in biv. 2 to BC on 19th, 2 to BC on 20th and climb finished.

Rescued a (Belgian Van Lint) with frostbite.