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SummitClimb Ama Dablam Expedition 2013

Ama Dablam · 2013 · 가을 (3) · USA

원정 개요

The expedition was divided into two groups:

Group 1 Group 2

James Barritt Dany Biner
Sarabijit Bhooee Mark Biner
Daniel Mazur Janik Jaeger
Ms. Maggie O'Connor Fernando Joeger
Timothy Richards Andreas Schelling
Mark Van'T Hof Nils Riva

On 17 October, Group 1 arrived at BC, which was actually in a lodge called Mingbo Lodge (some climbers call it Ama Dablam Base Camp Lodge) which is ten meters below the normal BC site.

The group climbed up to C2 on 23 October, where tents had been erected for them, but they did not stay there. There were no fixed ropes above the camp; this expedition had one strong Sherpa who could work with someone else to fix ropes, but he couldn't do the job alone. Barritt now wanted to fly home and left on 1 November. The rest of the group waited a couple of days for other climbers to come and help fix ropes, but those who arrived decided there was too much snow and it was too windy to go higher.

So this group descended to BC and stayed there, then went up again to C1 on 2 November. Some of them went up to C2, but did not stay there; all retreated to BC. They left BC on the 3rd: now Group 2 was arriving.

Group 2 had arrived at BC Lodge on 28 November, but they left on the 30th to climb two trekking peaks, Island Peak and Lobuche East, both of which were summited by all Group 2 members with the exception of Dany Biner, who did not climb Island Peak.

Jaeger climbed both peaks, but then announced that he did not want to climb Ama Dablam; he wanted to climb a much less crowded mountain alpine style, so he joined SummitClimb's Tawoche team.

The remaining members of Group 2 who had been to Island Peak and then Lobuche East arrived at Ama Dablam BC Lodge on 14 November. They climbed to C1 on the 15th and to C2 on the 16th, the day after ropes had been fixed to the summit by an expedition led by Adrian Ballinger.

They followed the Ballinger ropes to the top. On 17 November Joerger, Schelling and Riva summited from C2 and descended to BC the same day. At the same time, Dany and Marc Biner, father and son, left BC at about 5:00 pm, climbed straight through the night and arrived at the summit at 6:00 am on 18 November, then turned around back to BC at about 2:00 pm.

Neither group had any accidents, illnesses or frostbite. Group 1 returned to Kathmandu on 6 November and left on the 7th and 8th; Group 2 reached Kathmandu on the 24th and left two days later.

  • 내부 원정 ID8259
  • 원본 EXPIDAMAD13314
  • 대장Dan Mazur
  • 루트 (Route)SW Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도6814m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 12명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Daniel Lee (Dan) MazurUSALeader---
James Michael Dylan BarrittUKClimber---
Sarabjit Singh BhooeeUKClimber---
Daniel (Dany) BinerSwitzerlandClimber성공--
Marc Andre BinerSwitzerlandClimber성공--
Janik JaegerSwitzerlandClimber---
Fernando Alois JoergerSwitzerlandClimber성공--
Margaret Emily (Maggie) O'ConnorNew ZealandClimber---
Timothy John RichardsAustraliaClimber---
Nils RivaSwitzerlandClimber성공--
Andreas SchellingSwitzerlandClimber성공--
Mark Jan Van 't HofNetherlandsClimber---

출처·참고문헌

http://www.summitclimb.com/new/default.asp?linktype=r&nid=238 · 2013 · 웹사이트 (5) ·