원정 개요

BC at normal high BC
C1 on big flat glacier
C2 below Makalu La
High point north side of NW Ridge.

"A very beautiful mountain and normal route very beautiful to climb" so stayed on with Daniel for "real try to summit" while others wanted comfort and left. 1st try to reach C2 3 April because of the altitude and was too soon to reach it due to wind and snow. C2 small tent only. 23 Arpil Van Doorsselaere and Van Lint from BC to try for summit. 24th to C2, 25th took sleeping bags, tent, food, etc to make C3 tent at Makalu La. Started at 11:30 am on 25th heavily laden, last time following in darkness, but Van Lint, climbing with one crampon, did not reach La (Daniel had the tent). Daniel even went above La while Van Lint went down brief distance to find place for sleeping bag. Van Lint had frostbitten toes from previous night but didn't realize it till that night they reached C1.

"I don't regret any moment but I don't go back: There are so many mountains. I got almost to the pass, I know the way to the summit - for me its enough."

Made 2 depots above BC at 5800m and 5900m; depot 1 used only for few days but depot 2 slept in quite often. Blue ice all up Chago Glacier; no snow. Most members left BC 23 or 24 April to go to Dhaulagiri because sponsors insisted: chances of Makalu success poor because of winds which destroyed tents at BC, depot 2 and C1. At this time no one had gone above C2 which had been established by Bollaert and Kok and reached same day by Jos Dewint and next day by Van Doorsselaere and Van Lint.