Himalayan Experience (Himex) Ama Dablam Expedition 2013
Ama Dablam · 2013 · 가을 (3) · New Zealand
원정 개요
In their bid to climb Ama Dablam by a seldom-used route up the North Ridge, the team established two camps: BC at 5011m at the bottom of the North Ridge between the ridge and the East Face, and C1 at 6150m on the ridge. They were plagued from the beginning by waist-deep snow. Normally it would take three hours to go from Pangboche village to BC, but now it took them four days to make a trail which the yaks carrying all their loads could use to arrive at BC. And then it took six days instead of two for the climbers to force their way through the snow from BC to C1.
Five members and six Sherpas attempted to go on above C1. They were Bierling, Brice, Daum, Paul and Kuraoka with seven Sherpas. They managed on 4 November to reach the teams high point at 6250m, just 100 meters above C1, and then gave up. The climb now was abandoned: even if they took more time to carry on the struggle (which they didn't), the route was too dangerous from avalanching and likelihood of climbers succumbing to frostbite in the low temperatures now prevailing. The decision was to spend one night in C1 and then abandon their attempt on the mountain. They were back in BC on the 5th and left on the 6th.
Sherpas:
Gyalgen Dorje, 17/2/88, Phortse, Everest X9, Lhotse X2, Manaslu X4
Lhakpa Nuru, 18/6/80, Phortse, Everest X9, Lhotse X2, Manaslu X4
Nawang Tenjing, 20/11/93, Phortse, Everest X1, Manaslu X3
Ngima Chhiri, 22/4/72, Phortse, Everest X4, Manaslu X3
Phurba Tashi, 24/5/71, Khumjung, Cho Oyu X5, Everest X21, Lhotse X3, Manaslu X4
Rita Dorje, 24/10/77, Phortse, Everest X8, Lhotse X1, Manaslu X3
Tashi Tshering, 26/4/77, Khumjung, Everert X4, Lhotse X2, Manaslu X2
- 내부 원정 ID8230
- 원본 EXPIDAMAD13305
- 대장Russell Brice
- 루트 (Route)N Ridge
- 최고 도달고도6250m
- 정상 등정 성공아니오
- 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
- 종료 사유기술적 난이도 (10)
참가자 15명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Russell Reginald Brice | New Zealand | Leader | - | - | - |
| Hiroyuki Kuraoka | Japan | Assistant Leader | - | - | - |
| Shinji Tamura | Japan | Assistant Leader | - | - | - |
| Barbara Susanne (Billi) Bierling | Germany | Climber | - | - | - |
| Katherina Daum | Austria | Climber | - | - | - |
| Kazuya Hiraide | Japan | Climber | - | - | - |
| Naoki Ishikawa | Japan | Climber | - | - | - |
| Gregory Scott Paul | USA | Climber | - | - | - |
| Gyalzen Dorje (Gyaljen Dorje) Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | - |
| Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | - |
| Ngawang Tenjing (Nawang Tenzing) Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | - |
| Nima Tshering (Ngima Chhiri) Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | - |
| Phurba Tashi Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | - |
| Rita Dorje (Ang Rita Dorje) Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | - |
| Tashi Tshering Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | - |