원정 개요

BC at normal site
C3 at Great Shelf.

1st Main Smmit team went to C4 on 7th but slept in C4 and then to C5 on 8th and to top on 9th and back to sleep in C4. On top 3:30-4:00 found striped stick on top and autographed it.

1st Central Summit group slept in C3 14th and left C3 at 4:30 am, dropped loads at C5 at 1:15 pm and on top at 5:30 pm. Returned C4 8:00 pm. 15th-16th to C3. 17th carried loads to South route C4 and down to BC same day.

1st South Summit group: from C5 on 15th at 7:30 am to 8:15 am - much difficult climbing on new route. On top 2:40 pm till 3:10 pm. Left full and empty oxygen bottles and flags. Down to C3.

2nd Main Summit group from C4 on 16th at 8:00 am and at 2:00 pm in C5 and on top 5:30-5:45 pm. Slept in C5 except 2 cameramen to C4 (Moiseev and Troshchinenko).

2nd South Summit group: from C5 on 17th from 9:30 to 10:30 am (in intervals so as not to send stones falling on those below). On top 1:30-2:30 pm and in C3 8:00 pm.

29 April Central and Main Summits: started from C5 which they had to repair day before (28th) and 3 on central at 11:30 am while others moved more slowly without oxygen. All 5 started for Col between Central and Main Summits. On Main top all 5 at 2:20 pm and at 3:35 pm last one left main top. Back in C3 at 8:00 pm. All used oxygen part or all of this day, Khabibulin only for last 15 minutes.

Yalung Kang traverse group of Boukreev, Bershov, Vinogradski, Pogorelov and Turkevich left C5 on 30th (last one at 8:30) and 11:55 am on top and 12:25 began descent. In C5 at 2 pm. All on oxygen. Support group from C4 at 6:00 am, carried oxygen to C5; 3 of them (Souviga, Khrishchati and Shinov) without oxygen on top by 3:45. All immediately down to C4 where arrived 7:00 to 8:00 pm. Shinov and Dedi down to BC.

Traverse from West to South: had begun on 30th April with ascent of Yalung Kang and returned to C5 that afternoon. 1 May from C5 at 8:00 am and at 10:10 am were on Main Summit. Left Main Summit 11:10 am and were on Central Summit at 12:35 pm and left it at 12:50 pm. Climbed on the ridge, which was rather easy, without problems. On saddle between Central and South Summits at 2:10 pm met other traverse group. Reached South Summit at 2:45 pm. At 3:00 pm left South Summit and cleared C5 and C4 and arrived C3 at 7:00 pm. Entire climb on 1 May with oxygen. Had slept on oxygen previous night and used 2 bottles each on 1 May.

Traverse from West C4 to Main summit: 1 May Arsentiev, Klinetski, Souviga and Khrishchati (Souviga and Khrishchati without oxygen). Started 8:00 am from West C4, on Main summit at 4:30 pm to 5:30 pm and waited there for South-West traverse party. Met this party at main summit at 5:40 pm. Then was decided group from West C4 would go to Central C4 West were in Central C5 at 7:00 pm and slept there. 2 May they cleared Central C5 and C4 and brought it to C3 (were in BC at 11:00 pm ) not enough fuel in C3 to stay there).

Traverse South to West: 1 May started from South C5 from 8:40 and 9:15 am. Elagin, Koroteev, Luniakov, Balyberdin and Khalitov (the last three used no oxygen to South Summit, Khalitov used none all the way to saddle between South and Central Summits). Arrived South Summit 12:10 to 1:35 (Balyberdin was last). At 2:10 pm met West-South traverse group. At Central Summit 3:40 pm and left it at 3:50 pm for Main Summit which reached 5:40 to 6:00 pm. Down to West C5 at 8:00 pm. 2 May from C5 at 12 noon for Yalung Kang summit. All 5 used oxygen. On top 2:00 to 2:40 pm; 3:00 pm started descent: wanted to descend a gully, not same route as had descended. Down to C3 at 5:30 pm.

Final ascent: Cherny, Efimov, Ang Babu and Dr. Karpenko started on 3 May from West C5 with oxygen at 7:30 am to 8:30 am. Doctor went up 100m only and then down to C3. Other 3 to Main Summit at 11:30 am to 11:45 am and half hour there. Brilliant weather. Cleared West C5 and C4 and went to C3.

Total: 10 traversed and had already been to one summit before = 50 summits
Total: 85 summits by all 22 mountain climbers, 3 film group members, deputy leader Cherny and coach Efimov, and one Sherpa.

No accidents or frostbite; 1 case of altitude sickness during descent without oxygen but no serious effects.

Only 3 Sherpas went above C3 but 15 to C3 - members did much load carrying.

New route: 1) from 7800m (below C4) to South Summit
2) from Col between central and main summits to main summits -
really from C to M summits
3) not sure about newness of route from West C5 to Yalungkang

BC evacuated to lower camp below BC from 30 April to 7 May.