원정 개요

BC at Pangpema
C1 on glacier in center of it
C2 at west cliff of NE Ridge under North Col
C3 on North Face
C4 on North Ridge
C5 on North Face.

Essentially Roskelley and Warth route. Went to N Col and then cut across face. Sherpas didn't want to go to top because dangerous and technically difficult. Left BC 25 May, the day big cyclone storm started. Indonesians got to C2 only, had been on trip so training exercise. Used 1 tank for each summit team. Was no more difficult then expected. 6 men of Rainier Guide Service on top is good record for service.

Wickwire and Roskelley came late and left early, were at and above BC only 2 weeks. Wickwire said he was too old for such a big mountain, Roskelley didn't like climbing with Sherpas.

26 March 97 - Viesturs said the team's summiters did not go to the very summit out of respect for its being sacred - stopped few meters below. Could easily have gone to highest point in lovely weather and good health. Spent an hour on top enjoying view.