원정 개요

BC 07 Sep 4700m
C1 10 Sep 5700m
C2 14 Sep 6400m
C3 18 Sep 6800m
C4 24 Sep 7400m
Smt 25 Sep by Pastor at 3:30 pm

Pastor and Rebro left C4 at 3 am on 25 Sept. Many people were ahead of them. When Rebro reached 7900m at 1:40 pm, he decided to turn back as it was already late in the day and his rule was to reach the summit by 2 pm. He descended to C4, where he arrived at about 4:30 pm. Pastor continued and reached the summit at 3:30 pm. He stayed on the summit for 10 minutes and started this descent. There were some skiers and a couple of Sherpas; however they were faster and then he was alone on the route. He intended to go to C4, but could not find it. He must have gone too far to the left. At about 5 pm Pastor radioed Rebro to ask him to switch on the light in the tent so he could not find it. At 1 am on 2 Sept he established a bivouac between two big rocks on a saddle at about 7800m (last radio contact with Rebro) and slept until 5:30 am on 26 Sept. Rebro tried to radio Pastor, but he could not get through. Rebro stayed up all night looking for Pastor around C4, but he was too tired to go higher up. On 26 Sept Rebro descended to C1, where he arrived at about 9 pm and stayed the night. On 27 Sept he descended to BC.

Pastor in the meantime descended from his first bivouac and reached a plateau and an ice cliff, which was impossible to climb down, so he turned back and climbed up again. It was cloudy and he was still not sure where he was. He made a second bivouac at about 7400m and started to look for C4 again the next morning, on 27 Sept. Around 11 am, Ang Phurba from another team found Pastor. Ang Phurba gave Pastor oxygen and they descended to C4. It took them about 40 minutes to get there. They continued to C3, where Pastor was picked up by helicopter and taken to Samagaon and then to Kathmandu. Rebro descended to Samagaon on 28 Sept and was picked up by helicopter on 29 Sept.

Pastor went straight to hospital, where they checked him thoroughly, but he is fine. He did not even suffer frostbite despite having been up there for two nights without oxygen.

Oxygen: Used from 7800m to C3 by Pastor