원정 개요

BC east of Gyazumpa on wedge of Lungsumpa Glacier
C1 below point 6500m on S Ridge
High point at S Ridge.

1st week very strong wind and impossible to go above 5900m because wind would blow one away. Schaer broke his leg on 18 April when at about 5300m when loose boulder trapped him and had to carry him to Gokyo for helicopter. Had spent a week before accident but unable to get higher than 5900m with winds. Lost a week taking Schaer down. Then back on same ridge and reached 6200m on way to C2 site at 6500m, then Koechli got sick (typhoid?) and Fischer left with him; left BC 27 April. Tried going up one more time but winds strong and deep snow above C1, so "it's enough." "Biggest problem was the wind" from southwest.