원정 개요

BC at Nangpa Glacier at Kangshung (long way from foot of mountain)
C1 on glacier
1st biv directly at bottom of SW Buttress
2nd biv on buttress
3rd biv on buttress
4th biv where buttress joins normal route on west side.

Buttress that was attempted in Aut 1987 by Udall's American expedition was original objective, and Buhler and Zabaleta took a look at them, but they were too difficult for a 2-man team, too dangerous and "so far from the summit."

So went for Poles 1986 SW Buttress. Did some acclimatization climbing before their push up the buttress. After had established C1 on 25 March there was a storm for 5 days in BC. Then acclimatization climb to 6000m. Started alpine-style push for summit on 4 April, got to top on 8th from 4th bivouac at 7480m and back to this biv to sleep night of 8th there. On 9 April descended NW Ridge (normal route in Tibet) to 5840m (via Nangpa La); was "incredibly cold" and Buhler worried about frostbite but did not suffer any.

On his return from Cho Oyu, Buhler told PM Shrestha in Tourism Ministry he had broken his promise not to cross border into Tibet. Shrestha not deeply concerned.

Kearney got pulmonary edema below BC and was at BC only 31 March to 4 April when other 2 were in Tibet.

Sirdar Lhakpa Dorje sick a lot and left the expedition early, back just at end.