원정 개요

The Asian Trekking International Makalu expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1 climber each). Asian Trekking provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


Gia Tortladze (Georgia)

Camps: BC(15/04,5000m),ABC(17/04,5600m),C1(27/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6500m),
C3(20/05,7300m),C4(21/05,7500m),xxx(22/05,8200m)
Left: 25/05/2013
Hired: 1
Term: Abandoned at 8200m due to long, no fixed rope, too icy

On 21 May Tortladze left at 8 pm with other Asian Trekking members. Weather good, but windy from sunrise on. When they reached end of fixed rope the team decided to turn back. He descended to C4. He descended to C2, where he arrived at 5 pm. On 23 May to BC.

Sherpa:
Premba Tamang


Will Cross (USA)

Camps: BC(15/04,5000m),ABC(17/04,5600m),C1(25/04,6200m),C2(19/05,19/05,6700m),xxx
Left: 25/05/2013
Hired: 1
Term: Abandoned at 6700m due to breathing problem

Cross reached C2 during first acclimatization rotation on 26 April (only tagged it) and was feeling fine. When he went back for the summit attempt on 19 May, he was struggling to get to C2 as he had difficulties breathing. He spent the night on oxygen and descended to BC the next morning.

He was evacuated by helicopter from BC on 25 May.

Oxygen:
Taken and used at C2 for sleeping by Cross

Sherpas:
Nawang Tenzing (Nawangle), 1/2/1960, Phortse, Khumbu


Tonya Clement (USA)

Camps: BC(17/04,5000m),ABC(19/04,5600m),C1(27/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6500m),
C3(20/05,7400m),C4(21/05,7600m),xxx(22/05,8200m)
Left: 25/05/2013
Hired: 1
Term: Abandoned at 8200m due to oxygen system failed, end of fixed rope

Clement left with rest of Asian Trekking team at 8 pm on 21 May. The weather was perfect. However, when she arrived at the end of the fixed rope, she decided that it would be too dangerous to carry on, so she turned back at 5 am. On top of that she was having problems with her oxygen bottle (it was leaking). She descended to C2, arrived at 5 pm. On 23 May to BC.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C3 to high point C3

Sherpa:
Lhakpa Tshering, (17/7/76), Khumjung-3, Khumbu


Fernando Gonzalez-Rubio (Colombia)

Camps: BC(15/04,5000m),ABC(17/04,5600m),C1(27/04,6200m),C2(28/04,6700m),
C3(20/05,7400m),C4(21/05,7600m),xxx(22/05,8200m)
Left: 25/05/2013
Hired: 1?
Term: Abandoned at 8200m due to end of fixed rope

On 21 May Gonzalez with other Asian Trekking members left at 8 pm. Weather was good until sunrise, then 50 km/hr and it got very cold. The rest of team descended at 7 am at end of fixed rope. Gonzalez carried on with the David Goettler team, but turned back as he was tired and got cold feet. He descended to BC arriving at 5 pm.

Team left C4 at 8:30 pm on 21 May. Sherpas were fixing lines. Weather was good, a bit windy (40 km/h). On way to French couloirs they found out that the Sherpas only had 40m of rope left. Nima Gyalgen said that they would need another 200m of rope and they decided that it would be too dangerous to carry on.

They turned back at 5:30 am. Vajpai descended to BC, where he arrived at 2 pm. Fernando arrived at 5 pm, Krishna arrived at 10:30 pm.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C2 to high point to C2 by Vajpai, Krishnaa
From C4 to high point to C4 by Sherpas
Fernando no oxygen

High Point by Gonzalez and Patil, Nawangle (ex-w Cross), Nima Gyalgen (w Gonzalez?), Tshering Phinjo (w Vajpai), Prema Tamang (w Tortadze), Pasang Namgyal (w Patil), Lhakpa Tshering Sherpa (w Clement)


Dominique Dejose (Belgium)

Camps: BC(15/04,6000m),ABC(17/04,5600m),C1(27/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6300m),
xxx(28/04,6300m)
Left: 25/05/2013
Hired: 1
Term: Abandoned at 6300m due to mountain difficulty

On 1st rotation, Dejose reached C2 and slept there. When back at BC he decided that mountain was too hard for him and he would not carry on. He stayed at BC to wait for fellow Asian Trekking climbers.

Dejose also said that he didn't feel comfortable with Asian Trek services.


Krushnaa Patil (India)

Camps: BC(15/04,5000m),ABC(17/04,5600m),C1(27/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6500m),
C3(20/05,7400m),C4(21/05,7600m),xxx(22/05,8200m)
Left: 25/05/2013
Hired: 1
Term: Abandoned at 8200m due to end of fixed rope, worried that descent
would be difficult

On 21 May Patil left C4 at 8 pm with rest of Asian Trekking team. When she reached end of fixed ropes, the team decided to turn back as it was too icy to carry on without fixed rope. She descended to C2, arrived at 2 pm. At 6 pm she continued to BC and arrived there at 6 pm.

Sherpa:
Pasang Namgyal, 25/11/1972, Khumjung, Khumbu


Arjun Vajpai (India)

Camps: BC(15/04,5000m),ABC(17/04,5600m),C1(24/04,6200m),C2(25/04,6700m),
C3(20/05,7400m),C4(21/05,7600m),xxx(22/05,8200m)
Left: 25/05/2013
Hired: 1
Term: Abandoned at 8200m due to not enough rope

Team together with other Asian Trekking clients, left C4 at 8:30 pm on 21 May. Sherpas were fixing lines. Weather was good, but pretty windy, about 40km/h. On way to French couloirs they found out that the Sherpas only had 40m of rope left, which was not enough to fix all the way to the summit. They decided that it would be too dangerous to carry on and turned back at 5:30 am.

Vajpai descended to BC, where he arrived at 2 pm.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C2 to high point to C2 by Vajpay and Krishna
From C4 to high point to C4 by Sherpas

Sherpa:
Tshering Phinjo, Khumjung, 29/04/1973