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Asian Trekking Eco-Everest Expedition 2013

Everest · 2013 · 봄 (1) · Nepal

원정 개요

The Asian Trekking Eco Everest expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-4 climbers each). Asian Trekking provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


Udo Ebner (Austria)

Name: None
Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(29/04,7300m),
C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(19/05)
Left: 21/05/2013
Hired: 1
Term: Success (7:30 am)

Team left South Col at 7:30 pm. Perfect weather conditions. They summited at 7:30 am and stayed 45 minutes on the summit and descended to C4 where they arrived at 1 pm. When Ebner noticed that Barnabas Borbely (another Asian Trekking client) had taken his satellite phone to C2, Ebner also decided to go to C2 as he needed to ring his wife.

Ebner and Phura Nuru arrived at C2 at 11 pm. On 20 May they descended to BC.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C3 to summit to C4 by Ebner
Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by Phura Nuru

Sherpa:
Phura Nuru, Thami, Khumbu, 30/10/82 [from Tesho, 28/6/85]


Doug Scarborough (USA)

Name: None
Camps:
Left: 24/05/2013
Hired: 2
Term: Success (5:40 am)

Summit team reacehd South Col at 2 pm on 20 May. Scarborough opted to have two nights there as he wanted to rest long enough before his summit attempt.

They left C4 at 7 pm on 21 May. Weather was snowing and windy. There was nobody else on the route when they left. Straightforward climb. Clear summit, views and wind had died down. The summited at 5:40 am and stayed 25 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 1 pm. They stayed the night and descended to C2, the following day. On 24 May they descended to BC.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C2 to summit to C2 by Scarborough
Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by Sherpas

Sherpas:
Ngima Dorje (Nima Dorje) Thami, Khumbu, 31/8/84
Phurba (Ang Phurba) (Phurte, Khumbu), 1958


Andrzej Wojda (Poland)

Name: None
Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(29/04,17/05,7300m),
xxx(17/05,7300m)
Left: 21/05/2013
Hired: 0
Term: Abandoned at 7300m due to chest infection

On the summit attempt, Wojda reached C3 on 17 May. He was suffering from a chest infection and when it had not improved on 18 May, he decided to descend and abandon the expedition. He descended to C2 on 19 May and to BC on 20 May.

Oxygen:
Taken and used to sleep at C3 by Wojda


Nima Namgyal (Nepal)

Name: None
Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(29/04,7300m),
C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(19/05)
Left: 28/05/2013
Hired: 1
Term: Success (7:30 am)

Dr. Nima Namgyal spent two nights at the South Col. He was aiming for the 17th as a summit day, but it was too windy.

Dr. Nima and Ngawang Kalden left the South Col at 7:30 pm on 18 May. Ngawang Kalden turned around at the Balcony due to fatigue. He had been hit by a rock on the head on the Lhotse Face on 5th May and was flown to Kathmandu for treatment. He came back to BC after 5 days, but was obviously not acclimatized well enough acclimatized to make it to the summit.

Dr. Nima carried on to the summit. Perfect weather conditions. He stayed about 45 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where he arrived at 10:30 pm. On 20 May he descended to BC.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C2 to summit to C4 by Nima Namgyal
Taken and used from C4 to high point to C4 by Ngawang Kalden

Sherpa:
Ngawang Kalden, 21/5/1991, Khumjung, Khumbu


Natalia Garcia (Argentina)
Stephan Thodesen (Norway)

Name: None
Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(23/04,6400m),xxx(23/04,6400m)
Left: 21/05/2013
Hired: 2
Term: Abandoned at 6400m due to personal reasons (in-fighting)

Garcia and Thodesen were a couple and argued a lot. On 30 April they were fighting so hard (she punched him) that Dawa Steven Sherpa asked them to leave the expedition.


Carlos Santalena (Brazil)
Carlos Eduardo Elizeu Canellas (Brazil)

Name: None
Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(18/04,6000m),C2(19/04,6400m),C3(19/05,7300m),
C4(20/05,7900m),xxx(21/05,8100m)
Left: 24/05/2013
Hired: 1
Term: Abandoned at 8100m due to cold and frozen eye

Team left C4 at 7 pm on 20 May. Canellas was climbing without oxygen. When they reached the Balcony at about 8100m at midnight, Canellas eye was sore due to the cold (it had happened to him before) and he decided to turn around at about midnight. As Santalena was his guide he turned back with him.

They descended to C4, where they arrived at about 3 am. They spent the night at C4, descended to C2 on 22 May and to base camp on 23 May.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C3 to high point to C3 by Santalena
Canellas did not use oxygen
Taken and used from C4 to high point to C4 by Pasang Rita

Sherpas:
Pasang Rita, Thamo, Khumbu, 1/7/1977


Rodrigo Raineri (Brazil)
Joel Kriger (Brazil)

Name: None
Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(18/04,6000m),C2(19/04,6400m),C3(19/05,7300m),
C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
Left: 24/05/2013
Hired: 2
Term: Success (10:10 am)

Summit team left South Col at 10:40 pm. Weather was calm and clear. When Kriger reached the Balcony at 8100m he felt too tired to carry on. Many people on the route. At 7 am there was a traffic jam. Straightforward climb. They spent two hours on the summit, then descended to C4 where they arrived at 4:30 pm. On 22 May to C2 and 23 May to base camp.

Kriger [and Shera Gyalgen] left South Col at 7 pm. They reached the Balcony at about 10 pm, but Kriger's goggles froze and he was tired, so he decided to turn back. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 11 pm. Raineri thinks that Gyalgen had pushed Kriger too hard and that he was tired. They slept at C4 and descended to C2 the following day. BC on 23 May.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C3 to summit to C3 by members
Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by Sherpas

Sherpas:
Sonam Tashi, Khumjung, 3/12/1971
Shera Gyalzen


Barnabas Borbely (UK)

Name: None
Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(29/04,7300m),
C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(19/05)
Left: 21/05/2013
Hired: 1
Term: Success (8:20 am)

Team left South Col at 7:30 pm. Perfect weather conditions. Summited at 8:20 and stayed 45 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where he arrived at 11 pm. On 20th they descended to BC.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C3 to summit to C4 Borbely
Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by Pemba Tshering

Sherpa:
Pemba Tshering (Maila), Khumjung, Khumbu, 06/08/86


Horacio Cunietti (Argentina)
Horacio Galanti (Argentina)

Name: None
Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(19/05,6000m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(27/04,7300m),
C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(19/05)
Left: 22-23/05/2013
Hired: 2
Term: Success (7:00 am)

Summit team reached South Col at 2 pm on 17 May. It was very windy and they had problems keeping their tent down. At 8 pm they decided not to go to the summit on 18 May as it was too windy.

They stayed another day and left South Col at 7:30 pm on 18 May. Perfect weather conditions. There were about 40 people on the route and the progress was very slow, but straightforward climb. They summited at 7:00 am and stayed about 1-1/2 hours on the summit. Galanti made a mobile-banking transaction for Standard Chartered Bank. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 1 pm.

On 20 May they descended to C2 and on 21 May they went to BC.

Galanti left BC on 22 May; Cunietti left BC on 23 May.

Oxygen Used:
Taken and used from C3 to summit to C3 by Galanti and Cunietti
Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by Sherpas

Sherpas:
Mingma (Ang Mingma), Yilajung, Khumbu, 21/2/68 (with Galanti)
Lama Phurba, Thamo, Khumbu, 27/6/58 (with Cunietti)


Ramlal Sharma (India)

Name: None
Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(29/04,7300m),
C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
Left: 24/05/2013
Hired: 2
Term: Success (6:00 am)

Summit team left C4 at 7 pm. Weather was good with many people on the route. They spent about half an hour on the summit and descended to C4, where they stayed the night.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C3 to summit to C4 by Ramlal
Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by Sherpas

Sherpas:
Pasang Rita (Pa Rita), 17/7/74, Yilajung, Khumbu.
Phurba Sherpa, (2029/4/13) 28/7/72, Gaurishankar-3, Dolakha


Anita Devi (India)
Kanta Manu Devi (India)

Name: None
Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(29/04,7300m),
C4(17/05),Smt(18,21/05)
Left: 21/05/2013
Hired: 2
Term: Success (8:45 am, 5:15 am)

18 May summit team left C4 at 9:10 pm on 17 May. Very windy night, but after 12 pm when they had reached the Balcony, the wind died down and made the summit manageable. They reached South Summit at 5:40 am with little wind. Anita and Lhakpa Nuru summited at 8:45 am and spent about one hour on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 12:57 pm. On 19th descent to C2 and 20th to BC.

21 May summit team left C4 at 7 pm. Kanta Manu and Pasang Temba summited at 5:15 am and spent about 1/2 hour on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 1 pm.

Oxygen used:
Taken and used from C3 to summit to C4 by Anita & Kanta Manu Devi
Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by Sherpas

Sherpas:
Lhakpa Nuru, 18/1/1991, Khumjung, Khumbu (with Anita)
Pasang Temba, 27/1/1970, Thami, Khumbu (with Kanta)


Loveraj Singh Dharmshaktu (India)

Name: None
Camps: BC(17/04,5350m),C1(21/04,6000m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(27/04,7300m),
C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
Left: 25/05/2013
Hired: 1
Term: Success (6:00 am)

Summit team left C4 on 20 May at 9:30 pm. Many people there and perfect weather. Spent 1/2 hour on summit, then descended to C4 where they arrived at 10 am. On 22 May to C2, BC on 23 May.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C3 to summit to C3 by Dharmshaktu
Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by Sherpa

Sherpa:
Ki Dorjee, (12/11/2039) 24/12/83, Gudel-9, Solu


Arunima Sinha (India)

Name: Tata Steel Everest Expedition
Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3,C4(20/04,7900m),
Smt(21/05)
Left: 24/05/2013
Hired: 2
Term: Success (10:55 am)

Team summited at 10:55 am on 21 May.

First female amputee (leg) to summit Everest.

Sherpas:
Nima Kanchha
Pemba Tshering, Khumjung


Sushen Mahato (India)

Name: Tata Steel Everest Expedition
Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3,C4(18/04),7900m),
Smt(19/05)
Left: 22/05/2013
Hired: 1
Term: Success (7:00 am)

Team left South Col at 7:30 pm on 18th. Perfect weather conditions. Straightforward climb. Stayed on the summit for one hour and descended to C4, where they arrived at 1 pm. On 20th to C2 and 21st BC.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C3 to summit to C4 by Mahato
Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by Phura Jangbu

Sherpa:
Phura Jangbu


Allan Johnson (Canada)

Name: None
Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(29/04,7300m),
C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(19/05)
Left: 25/05/2013
Hired: 1
Term: Success (4:45 am)

Summit team first tried for 18 May, but Johnson turned back below the Balcony as he wasn't feeling well. On 18 May he left 8 pm. Weather good but windy. He summited at 4:45 am and stayed 1 hour on summit, then descended to C4 at 10:30 am. 20 May to C2, 21 May to BC.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C2 to summit to C2 by Johnson
Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by Sherpa

Sherpas:
Tenzing Dorje, Phortse, Khumbu, 19/11/70

  • 내부 원정 ID8131
  • 원본 EXPIDEVER13101
  • 대장Dawa Steven Sherpa, Asian Trekking Staff
  • 루트 (Route)S Col-SE Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도8849m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용사용
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 41명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Dawa Steven SherpaNepalLeader---
Nanda Dorje (Naga Dorje, Nanga) SherpaNepalClimbing Leader---
Barnabas BorbelyUKClimber성공사용-
Carlos Eduardo Elizeu CanellasBrazilClimber---
Horacio Luis CuniettiArgentinaClimber성공사용-
Anita DeviIndiaClimber성공사용-
Kanta Manu DeviIndiaClimber성공사용-
Loveraj Singh DharmshaktuIndiaClimber성공사용-
Udo EbnerAustriaClimber성공사용-
Horacio Daniel GalantiArgentina/CanadaClimber성공사용-
Natalia Paola GarciaArgentinaClimber---
Allan Arthur JohnsonCanadaClimber성공사용-
Joel Szmelsztayn KrigerBrazilClimber-사용-
Sushen MahatoIndiaClimber성공사용-
Rodrigo Chaddad RaineriBrazilClimber성공사용-
Carlos Eduardo SantalenaBrazilClimber-사용-
Douglas Andrew ScarboroughUSAClimber성공사용-
Ramlal SharmaIndiaClimber성공사용-
Nima Namgyal SherpaNepalExp Doctor성공사용-
Arunima SinhaIndiaClimber성공사용-
Stephan ThodesenNorwayClimber---
Andrzej Marek WojdaPolandClimber-사용-
Ki Dorjee SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Lhakpa Nuru SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Mingma (Ang Mingma) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Ngawang Kalden SherpaNepalH-A Worker-사용-
Ngima Dorje (Nima Dorje) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Nima Kancha SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Pasang Rita SherpaNepalH-A Worker-사용-
Pasang Rita (Pa Rita) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Pasang Temba SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Pemba Tshering SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Pemba Tshering (Maila) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Phura Jangbu (Ang Jangbu) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Phura Nuru SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Phurba SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Phurba (Ang Phurba) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Phurba Tshering (Lama Phurba) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Shera Gyalzen SherpaNepalH-A Worker-사용-
Sonam Tashi SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Tenzing Dorje SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-

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