한국산악아카이브 | KOREA MOUNTAIN ARCHIVE

본문 바로가기

히말라얀 데이터베이스

⌂ 처음 화면
← 산의 원정 기록

Himalayan Experience (Himex) Nuptse Expedition 2013

Nuptse · 2013 · 봄 (1) · New Zealand

원정 개요

Summit team left C3 at 2:15 am together with Kenton Cool from the UK and Alex Chicon (Txikon) from Spain. Weather was clear - with gusts of wind. Txikon and Cool summited an hour ahead of Miller and Nima Tshering and were trying to fix about 80m of rope length up to one of the cornices (two horns). However, the cornice was full of holes and very dangerous, so they decided to leave it.

The Himex team reached the point underneath the two horns which is not the highest point on Nuptse (high point is 7864m), but 70m below summit. The route was impossible to climb that year, as the cornice was full of holes and dangerous - but maybe they should get an asterisk in the database for not having reached the very highest point (the same applies to Cool and Txikon).

Miller, who was using supplementary oxygen, and Nima Tshering reached the high point at 11:30 am and the rest of the team joined them at 12:30 pm. They stayed aout 30 minutes on "summit" and descended to C3, where they arrived between 4 pm and 7 pm. On 17th May descent to C2 and on 18th May BC.

Martine Marsigny reached C2 on 1 May. She stayed up there for four nights to acclimatize, however, decided to abandon the expedition afterwards as she did not want to go through the Icefall again. She left BC on 7 May.

Dodhia, who never intended to climb Nuptse but was on the permit as she wanted to climb to Everest's C2, reached BC. She was too slow on Lobuche East and Brice thought it would be dangerous to send her through the Khumbu Icefall.

Tait never intended to climb Nuptse either. He summited Everest on 10 May and left BC on 12 May.

Brice was the expedition leader and was only on the Nuptse permit to be able to stay at BC. He never intended to climb Nuptse.

Oxygen:

Nobody used oxygen, apart from Ellen Miller from C3 to the top and then to about 7000m. She then gave her oxygen to her Sherpa Ngima, who was not feeling well and he descended from there to C2.

  • 내부 원정 ID8120
  • 원본 EXPIDNUPT13103
  • 대장Russell Brice
  • 루트 (Route)NE Spur/Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도7785m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용사용
  • 종료 사유부봉 등정 (2)

참가자 14명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Russell Reginald BriceNew ZealandLeader---
Barbara Susanne (Billi) BierlingGermanyClimber---
Maya Shakunt DodhiaKenyaMember---
Jennifer Frances LaughtonUKExp Doctor---
Francois Jacques Jean MarsignyFranceClimber---
Martine Fernande Girod MarsignyFranceClimber---
Ellen Elizabeth MillerUSAClimber-사용-
David Simon John (Dave) TaitUKClimber---
Robert Thomas ThorntonUKBC Support---
Jing WangChinaClimber---
Nima Tshering (Ngima Chhiri) SherpaNepalH-A Worker-사용-
Rita Dorje (Ang Rita Dorje) SherpaNepalH-A Worker---
Sonam Tashi SherpaNepalH-A Worker---
Tashi Tshering SherpaNepalH-A Worker---

출처·참고문헌

연결된 원본 Reference가 없습니다.