원정 개요

BC at Ama Dablam Glacier ENE of mountain
BC2 at Churo (normal West Face BC)
C1 at normal site from SW Ridge
C2 on SW Ridge
C3 on SW Ridge
High point on West Face of normal route.

26th April reached high point of 5700m on NE spur leading to N Ridge; fixed 250m rope but found route too technical for most members. So abandoned NE on 26th without having any bivouacs or camps on this route and sought permit for SW Ridge and went around to Churo (no water at normal SW route BC and Americans still there).

29th April-3rd May made biv at 6350m at normal C2 site. Only 4 got there: 4 members rested 4-10th May at BC. 9th May up to biv site which really was C2 (3 up to C2, one member stayed at BC). 11th May other 3 members moved onto W Face from SW Ridge. Pickering stopped at 6600m because of altitude sickness/nerves while 2 members carried on up to 6740m at 4:30 pm and then turned around because of late time, snow sugary and called it quits. Too risky on last 60m in sugary snow with only ice seracs. Groom felt cold in his amputated toes and fingers (frostbitten on Kangchenjunga a year and a half ago).