원정 개요

BC 10 Apr 5350m
C1 ---- 6000m
C2 15 Apr 6400m
C3 05 May 6800m
Smt 16 May by Txikon at 10:30 am.

Chicon (Txikon) left C3 at 2:15 am together with Kenton Cool from the UK and the Himex team. Weather was clear with gust of wind. He summited at 10:30 am. Txikon and Cool were trying to fix about 80m of rope length up to one of the cornices. However, the cornice was full of holes and very dangerous, so they decided to leave it.

After having spent about 2 hours on the "summit", he descended to C3, where he arrived at 4 pm. The following day he descended to C2, where he stayed until 19 May when he ascended again to C3 on the Lhotse Face to climb Lhotse.

Tamayo reached about 7500m during a summit attempt on 6 May with Txikon. They abandoned the first summit attempt as they had been going for 12 hours and were still far from the summit. It was before the Himex Sherpas had fixed the ropes, which meant they took a lot longer as they were climbing alpine-style. It was also very windy.

After their first summit attempt on Nuptse they descended to BC. On 14 May Tamayo woke up at BC with a swollen knee and found out that it was a torn meniscus. He took a helicopter to Kathmandu the same day.

Oxygen:
Not taken, not used


[Note: according to Ralf Dujmovits the true summit is further to the left. It involves traversing underneath the two horns and then joining the ridge left of the horns.]