원정 개요

Cool did not intend to make solo ascents, but his client dropped out before getting to Nepal. Cool just went ahead with the program without him.

Cool left C3 at 2:15 am together with Alex Chicon (Txikon) from Spain and the Himex team. Weather was clear with gusts of wind. When Cool and Txikon reached the highest point on the ridge, they were trying to fix about 80m of rope length up to one of the cornices. However, the cornice was full of holes and very dangerous, so they decided to leave it.


Cool’s account of his summit day by email - 01/06/2013:

"I led out the 80m of rope which is the orange line on the photo; on the back side it was steep snow and I didn't go over all the little peaks rather traversed away from the camera.

I fixed the line to a rather poor snowstake, then decided to count to see what was around the snow summit (I couldn't see past it). It seemed that the next bit was higher so I soloed off for 5 minutes of so until I got more than a little scared. I think I got to the flatter area in the photo behind the very obvious spikey summit looking thing in the middle. Like a fool I didn't take any photos (my rucksack was with Alex).

In terms of vertical it was maybe (I'm guessing here)..40m higher, the end of the rope which I led out was maybe 25m higher or so.."

He spent about 1-1/2 hours on the "summit" (on bottom of the cornice) descended to C3, where he arrived at 3 pm. He had a quick drink before he continued to C2 where he arrived at 5:45 pm the same day.


[Note: according to Ralf Dujmovits the true summit is further to the left. It involves traversing underneath the two horns and then joining the ridge left of the horns.]