원정 개요

BC at Kyashar Glacier between Kusum Kanguru and base of S Ridge of Thamserku
C1 at lateral moraine of Kyashar Glacier at base of East Face
C2 on East Face towards S Ridge
C3 just beside S Ridge (no room on North Ridge to camp).

Vos kicking steps in rock on 50 ft section powdery rock. From C2 all technical climbing and from here fixed rope (up entire route above). From C3 down to BC to rest (had colds). 13th from BC to C2, where almost smashed by large boulder that came down 1.5m from tent. 14th to C3, ate lunch started climbing S Ridge. Aprin climbed 500-600 ft (found Korean's rope) and got to stack of flakes totally loose; too dangerous and it simply came away. Culver had said he would quit by 16th. All snow and ice gear useless because only rock and had completely used up rock gear. Seems to be a pattern of glacier melting and rock bare on Nepalese mountains.

Aprin would have tried on alternate line on smooth rock face, but Culver determined to leave.