원정 개요

BC at normal BC site
C1 above icefall
High point at 8200m.

Kazemi launched her first summit bid by making her C4 at 7350m on 10 May, and that night, at 11:00 pm setting out for the top. However at 5:00 the next morning, she felt it was too late for her to get to the summit, and she returned to C4. She had been climbing with an Iranian man (Shahalee) and a Bangladeshi (Mohit) and their Sherpas.

She rested in C4, then at 10:30 pm on the 11th, she again left for the summit, this time with a Chinese woman, Luo Jing. Now at 2:30 the next afternoon, she managed to get as high as 8200m, at the bottom of a couloir, but there were no fixed ropes above this point, it was very cold and windy, and again she retreated to C4, at 8:00 pm. On the 13th she was back in BC.

She decided her C4 should be moved higher, so on the 18th she returned to C4 and on the 19th took it 150m higher to 7500m. That evening she began another summit push, but by 7:00 pm, she couldn't breathe. At 7900m she decided to return to C4, and at 3:00 am on the 20th she was back in C4. She intended to descend that day to C2 (6500m), but instead continued down to BC, taking her C2 gear with her.

That night an avalanche struck C2. Kazemi did not attempt to go up again because of pneumonia. Large crevasses had opened up and weather was changing quickly. She left BC on the 24th and reached Kathmandu on 1 June.

Kazemi had one Sherpa helping her, Nima Gyalzen, who reached the high point of 8200m with her on 12 May.

Sherpa:
Nima Gyalzen, 9/8/85, Beding, Everest X5, Manaslu X3, Cho Oyu X1