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BBVA Carlos Soria Kangchenjunga 2013

Kangchenjunga · 2013 · 봄 (1) · Spain

원정 개요

BC 11 Apr 5500m
C1 25 Apr 6140m
C2 26 Apr 6400m
C3 18 May 7000m
C4 19 May 7460m
HPt 20 May 8300m by Soria, Muktu, Pasang Temba at 10:30 am.

High-point team left C4 at 7 pm on 19 May, three hours after the rope-fixing team. At 2 am they had caught up with the rope fixers at 7800m. The progress was very slow and they had to wait a long time. At 8100m the rope fixers ran out of rope. Soria was with them and it was about 6 am. During the rope fixing they had problems with the Kevlar rope, which they were not used to.

According to Soria, the communication between rope-fixing team was pretty bad. The team then overtook the rope fixers and followed the Iranian Reza Shahlaee and Nima Gyalzen and continued without rope. At about 8300m Soria decided to turn back as he thought that coming down would be too dangerous and he had already been going for 15 hours. [At 10:30 am] they turned back to C4, where they arrived at 4 pm. They were very tired. On 21 May the team descended to C1.

In the night of 20 May an avalanche destroyed C2, but nobody was there.

Salas reached 6600m on acclimatization rotation on 27 April. He never intended to summit as he was the base camp manager.

Lopez and Martinez reached C4 on 19 May together with high-point team. When it became clear that the rope had not been fixed and that Soria might need two days for the summit attempt, they decided to abandon their summit bid as they would have run out of oxygen and their purpose for being there was to look after Soria. They left C4 at 12:30 pm and arrived at C3 at 2:30 pm.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C4 to high point to C4 by Soria, Muktu and Pasang Pemba

Sherpas:
Muktu Lhakpa (Muktuk), 21/8/72 Tashigaon, Makalu-Barun
Pasang Temba, 20/1/83, Tashigaon, Makalu-Barun

  • 내부 원정 ID8091
  • 원본 EXPIDKANG13102
  • 대장Carlos Soria
  • 루트 (Route)SW Face
  • 최고 도달고도8300m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용사용
  • 종료 사유보급·장비 (8)

참가자 6명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Carlos Soria FontanSpainLeader---
Luis Miguel Lopez SorianoSpainClimber---
Carlos Alberto Martinez GarciaSpainExp Doctor---
Daniel Salas MiratSpainBC Manager---
Muktu Lhakpa (Muktuk) SherpaNepalH-A Worker-사용-
Pasang Temba SherpaNepalH-A Worker-사용-

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