원정 개요

BC at base of icefall between Tukuche and Dhaulagiri I
C1 above icefall
C2 at NE Col
C3 on NE Ridge
C4 on NE Ridge (summit of rocky ridge)
High point at C4.

Everyday storms: snow and winds up to 200 kph occasionally. Was great experience but maybe too early arrival (was very cold and stormy) and team not so strong. C4 destroyed twice by wind, C3 also destroyed by snow. Were worn out going up and down because of destruction and replacement of equipment. Fixed rope all route from C3 and C4 and a lot of route from BC to C1. Left BC 26th April.

Expedition had originally been 9 members with 4 from Buenos Aires who organized it and 4 from mountains who are stronger climbers. When Argentinian currency devalued 60%, only half members could come and they were the people who had worked hard to organize it. None of those who came were sufficently strongly motivated to go for top on his own with couple of Sherpas.