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Seven Summits Club Everest Expedition 2013

Everest · 2013 · 봄 (1) · Russia

원정 개요

The expedition led by Abramov divided into groups. First group led by Abramov included four members: Ashurly, Morozov, Sabyrbayev, Simonovich and six climbing Sherpas: Jangbu, Mingma Temba, Ngima Ongdi, Nima Dorje, Nurbu and Pasang Gyaljen. Abramov team left C3 at 1 am (CST) on 19 May and reached summit at 6:30 am. They stayed on summit for 30 minutes and descended C3 around mid-day, then continued to ABC; by 7 pm all arrived at ABC.

The second team guided by Hanna included 5 members: Dudko, Krasnov, Provolov, Rychenko, Kostrikin and five Sherpas: Mingma Dorchi, Pemba Nurbu, Pemba Rinjin, Phurbu Kusang and Ram Nurbu. The team left C3 at 2 am (CST) on 20 May. Kostrikin turned around from 8500m due to tiredness. Rest of the team reached summit between 7:30-8 am. They spent 30 minutes on the top. By 8 pm the team descended to ABC.

Berdychowski left expedition on 9 May; he had severe headache.
Dr. Larin high point was North Col; he suffered from sore throat.
Shevchenko and Shvetcov went up to 8000m.

Sherpas:
Jangbu, 26/8/1985, Makalu-5
Ming Temba, 2/6/92, Makalu
Ngima Ongdi, 19/2/79, Makalu-5
Nima Dorje, 2/10/87, Makalu
Nurbu (small) 16/2/91, Makalu
Pasang Gyaljen, 30/7/81, Makalu-9
Mingma Dorchi, 30/8/80, Makalu-5
Pemba Nurbu, 28/3/1980, Makalu-5
Pemba Rinjin, 1965, Makalu-5
Phurbu Kusang, 6/12/73, Makalu-9
Ram Nurbu, 25/11/1980, Makalu
Nurbu, 21/1/80, Makalu-4, did not go to the summit due to stomach problem
Mingma Gelu, 3/2/79, Makalu-5, ABC only (Director of Seven Summit Adv)


From 7 Summits Club web site:

Sergey Ponomarev, member of the expedition of 7 Summits Club, died near camp ABC
Yesterday, May 5, a member of the 7 Summits Club Everest expedition Sergey Ponomarev died, presumably of a heart attack. He died almost instantly on a trail near the Camp ABC.

May 4th, the team of 7 Summits Club (23 climbers - guides and 11 Sherpas) went to climb the North Col of Everest 7000m. This was the final stage of acclimatization. Shortly after leaving the camp (6400m) Sergey Ponomarev was going very slowly. He was asked to return to the camp 6400m. There he should to spend the night and wait for the descent of the whole team from the North Col. Sergey agreed, and went down to the Camp 6400m. Rest of the team spent a night in the North Col.

The next morning, May 5, a part of the team made a successful ascent on the summit of Changtse 7600m. At noon the whole team started to descend to the Advanced Base Camp.

Sergey, accompanied by a Sherpa, decided to go up the path towards the team. At 100 meters from the Camp ABC, at an altitude of about 6500m, Sergey felt bad. He stopped breathing, heart rate is not detectable, the pupils did not react to light. All attempts at resuscitation using oxygen, closed-chest cardiac massage and artificial respiration, which lasted about 30 minutes, did not lead to success.

Early this morning, May 6, the body with porters was sent to the Base Camp of Mount Everest, for onward transportation to Kathmandu.

  • 내부 원정 ID8079
  • 원본 EXPIDEVER13185
  • 대장Alex Abramov
  • 루트 (Route)N Col-NE Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도8849m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용사용
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 27명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Alexander (Alex) AbramovRussiaLeader성공사용-
Murad AshurlyAzerbaijan/RussiaClimber성공사용-
Zygmunt Wladyslaw BerdychowskiPolandClimber---
Sergey DudkoRussiaClimber성공사용-
Noel Richmond HannaUKClimber성공사용-
Pavel KostrikinRussiaClimber-사용-
Dmitrii KransnovRussiaClimber성공사용-
Sergei LarinRussiaExp Doctor---
Kostiantyn MorozovUkraineClimber성공사용-
Sergey PonomarevRussiaClimber--사망
Denis ProvalovRussiaClimber성공사용-
Vladimir RychenkoRussiaClimber성공사용-
Yaroslav SabyrbayevKazakhstanClimber성공사용-
Sergei ShevchenkoRussiaClimber-사용-
Sergei ShvetcovRussiaClimber-사용-
Vitaly SimonovichRussiaClimber성공사용-
Jangbu SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Mingma Dorchi/Dorje SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Ming Temba SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Nima Dorje (Nima Dorchi) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Nima Ongdi SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Nurbu SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Pasang Gyalzen SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Pemba Nurbu SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Pemba Rinjin SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Phurbu Kusang SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Ram Nurbu SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-

출처·참고문헌

http://www.7summits-club.com/newssections/all_1/newssection_163_1/item_3966/ · 2013 · 웹사이트 (5) ·