원정 개요

BC below north side of East Ridge
C1 on East Ridge
C2 at plateau before East Pinnacle
High point northeast of East Pinnacle.

After made BC, had heavy snowfall so C1 only possible 10 days later. Fixed rope in couloir to get onto ridge and on ridge itself which very difficult rock requiring 300m rope. Had depot at 6250m where slept one night while moving gear. Route to C2 was north of E Ridge, just before ridge goes steeply up to E Pinnacle. From C2 tried twice for bivouac from which to go to summit (biv to be at about 7500m), but snow and wind defeated both attempts.