원정 개요

BC 14 Apr 5200m
ABC 19 Apr 6400m
C1 05 May 7000m
C2 13 May 7800m
C3 8300m
Smt 15 May by McFatter, Namgyal, Galden at 10 am.

Summit team left C2 at 8 pm. It took 4 hours to get to C3. They did not have a tent there and the only tent there belonged to the rope-fixing team. The weather was good. They spent 40 minutes on the summit and started their descent. The weather changed at about 1:30 pm and it got very windy. The team descended to C3, where they arrived at 5 pm. They got into the rope-fixer's tent to rest and protect themselves from the high winds. McFatter left for his descent at 6 am. It was still very windy. Namgyal and Galden left a little bit later. When McFatter reached the top end of C2, Galden had caught up with him. He was very upset and told McFatter that Namgyal had died of what was probably a heart attack between C2 and C3. When the two were going down together, Namgyal had complained of pain around his heart and sat down. Galden quickly cranked up the oxygen, but Namgyal died very quickly. He left the body and descended to C2.

At C2, McFatter and Galden rested in a Chinese tent. McFatter was thinking about going back up, but Galden stopped him. By that time it was about 5:30 pm. They left the Chinese tent and descended further to their tent where they spent the night. On 16 May they descended to C1, where they spent the night. ABC on 17 May.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C2 to top to C2 (or point of death) by all

Sherpas:
Galden, Cheremy, Bung-9, Solukhumbu, 6/12/86
Namgyal Sherpa, Rakha Bangdel, Khotang, 5/10/77 (Died)