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Polish Dhaulagiri Expedition 2013

Dhaulagiri I · 2013 · 봄 (1) · Poland

원정 개요

BC at normal site
C1 below Col
C2 on NE Ridge
C3 on NE Ridge
High point on NE Ridge.

The NE Ridge, where they were climbing, was covered by hard blue ice at altitudes around 7000m and thus very difficult to ascend. They were forced to bivouac on 20 May at 7000m because of the ice, and because a strong wind was blowing. However, six members and one Sherpa managed to establish C3 at 7200m the next day, 21 May.

The six members were Bielecka, Cholewa, Natkanski, Stys, Tomala, and Zaluski. Cholewa had his own Sherpa because he had pulmonary edema ten years previously.

On 22 May at 2:30 am, Bielecka, Cholewa, Stys and Tomala and the Sherpa left C3 for the summit and reached 7400m. Because of the strong wind, Cholewa, Stys and Tomala retreated to C1, arriving there after 3:00 pm. But Bielecka continued trying for the top. She reached 8100m at 4:00 pm with the two members of a separate team, Pawel Michalski (also Polish) and Simone La Terra (Italian).

The three stopped climbing at 8100m because they now realized that they had made the wrong choice to stay on the NE Ridge instead of traversing slightly onto the North Face as the best approach to the summit. They were back in C2 at 10:00 pm.

Miotk and Zebracki had left the team on 10 May because they were not very strong, and Zebracki was not well.

  • 내부 원정 ID8052
  • 원본 EXPIDDHA113107
  • 대장Jerzy Natkanski
  • 루트 (Route)NE Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도8100m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유기술적 난이도 (10)

참가자 8명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Jerzy NatkanskiPolandLeader---
Agnieszka BieleckaPolandClimber---
Robert CholewaPolandClimber---
Marcin Jan MiotkPolandClimber---
Tamara Marta StysPolandClimber---
Piotr TomalaPolandClimber---
Dariusz Jerzy ZaluskiPolandClimber---
Jacek Grzegorz Zylka ZebrackiPolandClimber---

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