원정 개요

BC 28 Apr 4670m
C1 03 May 5900m
C2 06 May 6550m
C3 21 May 7250m
HPt 26 May 7600m by Mueller at 7 am for rescue of Juanjo Garra.

On their summit attempt Bauer, Kurz, Hohlleben and Mueller reached C3 at 3 pm on 21 May. As the weather forecast had changed and was no longer good enough for the summit, Mueller decided to wait another day. After he had spoken to the weather service again on 22 May and the weather was not going to improve, he decided to abandon the expedition. They descended to C1 on 23 May. On 24 May to BC.

Schmid reached C2 on 6 May on first acclimatization rotation. He did not join summit attempt as he found the mountain too risky.

Sieveking got a bad cough and fever when he got to BC and was picked up by helicopter on 30 April.

Oxygen:
Not taken, not used


Rescue of Juanjo Garra:

When Mueller came down from C1 on 24 May, he joined the meetings that were held for the rescue of Juanjo Garra. On 24 May the first helicopter arrived to look for Juanjo. On 25 May three rescue Sherpas were flown in from Kathmandu and were dropped at 6100m and continued to C2. In the afternoon, the helicopter dropped Mueller at 6100m to join the rescue. He climbed to C2, where he arrived at 6 pm. The Indian team and Dawa Sherpa of Expedition Himalaya (Chizuko Kono) came down and Muller made from tea and stayed there until 10 pm. He then ascended to C3 (route was difficult to negotiate as a lot of the anchors of the fixed rope had come loose), where he arrived at 4:30 am.

He woke up the three rescue Sherpas, who continued climbing. Mueller also carried on to 7600m. He was looking for Juanjo and Keshab, but could not find them. As he had been going for a long time, he noticed that he was getting exhausted and decided to turn back as he knew that the Sherpas were on their way.

On his way down, he was hit by gas cyclinders, ice screws, etc. that were melting out of the flank. He was picked up by a Fishtail helicopter 6800m at about 2 pm on 26 May. Later that afternoon he heard that the Sherpas had reached Juanjo, but could not do anything. Mueller and his team left BC.

Chizuko Kono

According to Mueller, Kono died at about 7700m on 24 May. She had been using oxygen from BC and was exhausted at that point. Dawa stayed with her until she died. Dawa also lost a climbing Sherpa, another Dawa Sherpa. He disappeared below C4 and was never seen again.