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Japanese Dhaulagiri I

Dhaulagiri I · 2013 · 봄 (1) · Japan

원정 개요

BC 25 Apr 4670m
C1 01 May 5900m
C2 19 May 6550m
C3 20 May 7000m
C4 21 May 7250m
HPt 23 May 8060m by Kono, Dawa and Dawa Sherpa.

On 22 May high point team started their summit attempt and left C4 at 10:30 pm. Around 2 pm they reached 8060m. The two Dawas tried to help the fallen Spanish climber, Juanjo Garra for about one hour. Afterwards they continued to climb but the weather deteriorated and the team decided to turn back. At about 7900m the winds got so strong and visibility so low that they stopped at 6 pm. They waited for two hours. Kono was very weak and was unable to move. The Sherpas tried to drag her down, but when they reached 7700m at 10 pm Kono died, probably of high altitude sickness. Dawa and Dawa bivouacked around that altitude and descended to C4 the next day. Kono's body was left at 7700m.

On the descent. Dawa must have slipped as he never arrived at C4. Dawa from Loding was too tired to look for him and stayed at C4 for two nights as he was so exhausted. He descended to C2 on 27 May. He was rescued by helicopter from C2.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from BC to high point to BC by Kono
Taken and used from C4 to high point to C4 by Dawa (Loding)
Taken and used from C4 to high point to point of death by Dawa

Sherpas:
Dawa, Loding (Tamakhani), Solukhumbu, 16/6/69
Dawa, Tapting-9, Solukhumbu, 1971

  • 내부 원정 ID8049
  • 원본 EXPIDDHA113104
  • 대장Chizuko Kono
  • 루트 (Route)NE Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도8060m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용사용
  • 종료 사유악천후 (4)

참가자 3명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Chizuko KonoJapanLeader-사용사망
Dawa SherpaNepalH-A Worker-사용사망
Dawa SherpaNepalH-A Worker-사용-

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