원정 개요

4 May: Peter Knyshov attempted to climb up to C3. Around 11:30 am, he fell in a crevasse up to his chest, managing to get out of it alone with his ice axes. Decided to come back to C2 after that and wait for somebody to climb with, as no fixed ropes were put at all above C2. He slept there again the nights of 4th, 5th and 6th of May (4 nights at C2). Then on the 7th, seeing that nobody was coming who with he could have teamed up with, feeling exhausted, he went back to the ABC.

On the 8th, as the Americans just arrived in BC and Austrians seemed not ready to go up, he realized that in 2 or 3 days nobody would ever put fix ropes above C2. Feeling already tired as the recovery at ABC was not efficient, he decided to cancel the summit and postpone his attempt to the next time.

According to Knyshov, Snowy Horizon Sherpas didn't target to attempt for the summit. Peter Knyshov waited 3 nights at C1 for these Sherpas to put fixed ropes over seracs laying between C1 and C2. For Peter Knyshov there has been a big waste of time, as the weather was not too bad during time he spent on the mountain (5 days of storm otherwise fine conditions). But none from Snowy Horizons Sherpas or the independent Austrians wanted to work for the track. In fact, according to Makalu Adventure, it seems CTMA is supposed by contract to put fixed ropes anywhere on the mountain (in partnership with the agencies). Was not efficient, Peter Knyshov thought he could just follow the fixed ropes up to the summit like this).