원정 개요

The expedition's main goal was Bijora Hiunchuli, which is not on the permitted list, but is one of the peaks in the Jagdula range. Jagdula peak is permitted. Bijora Hiunchuli's altitude is given variously as 6011m or 6111m.

The team started their approach by flying to Nepalgunj on 15 April. They made several camps in the following days. On the 22nd, in order to climb several small mountains in the area, they pitched a low BC north of Bijora Hiunchuli on the east side the Chaudhabas Glacier. On the 24th and 25th, they arrived at BC at 4965m to give access to the north side of the North Ridge. On the 26th they made a deposit camp at 5300m on the north side above BC. On the 27th they returned to BC because some members were developing altitude sickness.

On 28 April Bijora Hiunchuli was attempted by six members, Baillif, Bonhomme, Castex, Exbrayat, Grobel and Perrette, with their two Nepalese helpers, Dan Bahadur Magar and Jangbu Sherpa. They climbed to 5800m on the North Ridge, but then retreated to BC because they could see bad weather coming with thick clouds approaching.

At the same time, Damilano and Talopp climbed a small (5328m) unnamed peak just west of BC, reached its summit via its NE Face and returned to BC that day.

The next day, the members and Sherpas who had been on the unnamed mountain now climbed the same small peak by its NE Ridge and went back to BC the same day.

On the 30th Baillif, Bonhomme, Castex, Grobel and the two Sherpas made another attempt on Bijora Hiunchuli's North Ridge. This time they reached 5900m, but again were stopped by the clouds. They now descended to low BC.

Also on 30 April Damilano summited Jagdula Peak, 5764m, east-northeast of Bijora Hiunchuli. He left low BC at 4:00 pm on the 29th and got to the top at 11:00 am the next day. He ascended mixed rock and ice on the SW Face, descended the NW Ridge, and was back in low BC at 4:00 pm of the 30th.

Finally on 1 May Exbrayat and Perrette climbed a 5060m unnamed peak just southeast of BC. They went from Low BC up the peaks's North Face to the top to Low BC that day.

Now the climbing effort was over, and on the 2 May the team left low BC to return to Nepalgunj and Kathmandu.

One member had dropped out. Perazio's eyesight was affected by the altitude of BC, he could do no climbing, and he left BC on 25th April in a helicopter. This was the team's only health problem.

Hired:
Dhan Bahadur Magar, 24/1/86, Wapsa-8, Solu
Jangbu Sherpa, 23/4/1988, Kapan, Kathmandu