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Phoenix Expedition to Manasalu

Manaslu · 1989 · 봄 (1) · Spain

원정 개요

BC at normal site above Samagaon
C1 on glacier
C2 on glacier
C3 above glacier on east side
C4 on ridge.

Climb going very well and planned summit bid on 8th or 9th May. Had all supplies necessary with them for C5 and four were strong. Suddenly Suarez was no longer just behind as they arrived at C5 site. "It was a clean expedition and everything was OK." No idea why he fell; he was just arriving at C5 site, only couple of meters behind others when he disappeared. He fell at 1:30 pm; slope was not steep (30 degrees) and he was on hard ice with both crampons OK; fell 500m and killed by fall ("head and everything was broken"). Could see his body from C5 site, reached him 2-3 hours later and buried him in crevasse at 6800m same day.

19 May: Brown believes Suarez fell because of cerebral edema and dehydration. Night before his death Suarez had headache. He and other Spaniards were not taking lots of liquids to hydrate themselves. Iraola also probably had edema and hypothermia on day Suarez fell.

  • 내부 원정 ID803
  • 원본 EXPIDMANA89103
  • 대장Keith Brown
  • 루트 (Route)NE Face
  • 최고 도달고도7300m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유사고 (6)

참가자 6명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Keith BrownUSALeader---
Javier IraolaSpainClimber---
Jose Ramon MelonSpainClimber---
Albino Quinteiro MoraSpainClimber---
Santiago SuarezSpainClimber--사망
James Lee SuttonUSAClimber---

출처·참고문헌

Brown, Keith · 1989 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199024401/Asia-Nepal-Manaslu-Attempt-and-Tragedy · 1989 · 웹사이트 (5) ·