원정 개요

On 21 Oct we started at 3:30 am to our summit attempt. At 4:00 am we boarded the southern face of the Raksha Urai III. After crossing the bergschrund, 16 pitches of 60m each followed in steeper terrain. The flank went from 60-degrees steep firn over 70 degrees steep firn/ice passages and ran below the ridge in 80-degrees steep ice lengths. For the climbing by the flank we needed about 10 hours. We climbed in a combined style of changing guide and climbing on the running rope, whereby we alternated with the lead every 120 meters at a time. Arrived at the eastern ridge of Raksha Urai III we followed the ridge to the point where the East Ridge
meets the South Ridge, and from there follow the South Ridge to the summit. In particular, the South Ridge was partially rocky, steep and heavily overgrown. A small additional load was sufficient to trigger avalanches. We reached the summit at 5:30 pm and spent 10 minutes on the summit. In 6 hours we accomplished the descent to C1 at 11:30 pm.

We also attempted Raksha Urai II in a first attempt, but had to return because of heavy avalanche danger in the east face.